Émile Zola, Novelist and Reformer: An Account of His Life & WorkVizetelly, Ernest Alfred
General
Émile Zola, Novelist and Reformer: An Account of His Life & Work
Vizetelly, Ernest Alfred
Zola, Émile, 1840-1902
Thanks to the wine provided at those monthly dinners, they were
livelier, though perhaps not more interesting, than the Sunday meetings
in Flaubert's rooms. They took place at various restaurants, the
first at the Café Riche, on April 14, 1874.[5] Then, as Flaubert was
starting for Le Croisset, near Rouen, the next was adjourned till
the winter months. As Zola tells us, during the years over which
these dinners were spread, the choice of a restaurant for the next
repast invariably led to great discussion among the five _convives_.
Anxious apparently to sample every kind of _cuisine_, they went from
the Café Riche to Voisin's in the Rue St. Honoré; from Voisin's to
Adolphe and Pelé's near the Grand Opera House, and thence to the Byron
on the Place de l'Opéra Comique. They feasted now on _bouillabaisse_,
now on _poulet au kari_. Tourgeneff naturally required caviar to whet
his appetite; Flaubert always insisted on having Normandy butter, and
revelled in Rouen ducklings _à l'étouffade_; while Goncourt evinced
a depraved taste for preserved ginger. As for Zola, he, according to
Alphonse Daudet, was addicted to shellfish and sea-urchins! His friends
occasionally twitted him respecting the partiality he began to evince
for good fare,--which cast, they said, a lurid light on his novel,
"Le Ventre de Paris"--and he frankly acknowledged his _gourmandise_,
pleading, however, that it was his only vice, and that he had gone
hungry so many years!
Of course there was no ceremony at those monthly dinners. Flaubert
and Zola often took off their coats and sat down at table "in their
shirt-sleeves," as the phrase goes, while between the courses
Tourgeneff would sprawl on a sofa. And directly the coffee was served
the waiters were turned out of the room, and a long discussion
on literary subjects began, that is when it had not been started
already at the outset of the repast. "I remember," wrote Zola, in his
recollections of Flaubert,[6] "a terrible discussion on Chateaubriand,
which lasted from seven in the evening till one o'clock in the
morning. Flaubert and Daudet defended him, Tourgeneff and I attacked
him, while Goncourt remained neutral. At other times we took up the
subject of the passions, talked of women and love, and on those
occasions the waiters looked at us aghast. Then, as Flaubert detested
having to walk home alone, I accompanied him through the dark streets,
and did not get to bed till three o'clock in the morning, for we halted
at the corner of every open space to philosophise."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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