There is no beverage which I have liked "to live with" more than Beer;
but I have never had a cellar large enough to accommodate much of it, or
an establishment numerous enough to justify the accommodation. In the
good days when servants expected beer, but did not expect to be treated
otherwise than as servants, a cask or two was necessary; and persons who
were "quite" generally took care that the small beer they drank should
be the same as that which they gave to their domestics, though they
might have other sorts as well. For these better sorts at least the good
old rule was, when you began on one cask always to have in another.
Even Cobbett, whose belief in beer was the noblest feature in his
character, allowed that it required some keeping. The curious "white
ale," or lober agol--which, within the memory of man, used to exist in
Devonshire and Cornwall, but which, even half a century ago, I have
vainly sought there--was, I believe, drunk quite new; but then it was
not pure malt and not hopped at all, but had eggs ("pullet-sperm in the
brewage") and other foreign bodies in it.
I did once drink, at St David's, ale so new that it frothed from the
cask as creamily as if it had been bottled: and I wondered whether the
famous beer of Bala, which Borrow found so good at his first visit and
so bad at his second, had been like it.[E]
On the other hand, the very best Bass I ever drank had had an exactly
contrary experience. In the year 1875, when I was resident at Elgin, I
and a friend now dead, the Procurator-Fiscal of the district, devoted
the May "Sacrament holidays," which were then still kept in those remote
parts, to a walking tour up the Findhorn and across to Loch Ness and
Glen Urquhart. At the Freeburn Inn on the first-named river we found
some beer of singular excellence: and, asking the damsel who waited on
us about it, were informed that a cask of Bass had been put in during
the previous October, but, owing to a sudden break in the weather and
the departure of all visitors, had never been tapped till our arrival.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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