I never drank mum, which all know from The Antiquary, some from "The
Ryme of Sir Lancelot Bogle," and some again from the notice which Mr.
Gladstone's love of Scott (may it plead for him!) gave it once in some
Budget debate, I think. It is said to be brewed of wheat, which is not
in its favor (wheat was meant to be eaten, not drunk) and very bitter,
which is. Nearly all bitter drinks are good. The only time I ever drank
"spruce" beer I did not like it. The comeliest of black malts is, of
course, that noble liquor called of Guinness. Here at least I think
England cannot match Ireland, for our stouts are, as a rule, too sweet
and "clammy." But there used to be in the country districts a sort of
light porter which was one of the most refreshing liquids conceivable
for hot weather. I have drunk it in Yorkshire at the foot of Roseberry
Topping, out of big stone bottles like champagne magnums. But that was
nearly sixty years ago. Genuine lager beer is no more to be boycotted
than genuine hock, though, by the way, the best that I ever drank (it
was at the good town of King's Lynn) was Low not High Dutch in origin.
It was so good that I wrote to the shippers at Rotterdam to see if I
could get some sent to Leith, but the usual difficulties in establishing
connection between wholesale dealers and individual buyers prevented
this. It was, however, something of a consolation to read the delightful
name, "our top-and-bottom-fermentation beer," in which the
manufacturer's letter, in very sound English for the most part, spoke of
it. English lager I must say I have never liked; perhaps I have been
unlucky in my specimens. And good as Scotch strong beer is, I cannot say
that the lighter and medium kinds are very good in Scotland. In fact, in
Edinburgh I used to import beer of this kind from Lincolnshire,[I] where
there is no mistake about it. My own private opinion is that John
Barleycorn, north of Tweed, says: "I am for whisky, and not for ale."
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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