taking sketch after sketch of its aspects, from every point or
half-point of the compass. There are three other sketches of this
bridge, far more detailed than these, in the National Gallery.
A scratched word on the back of one of them, "Rheinfels," which I
knew could not apply to the Rheinfels near Bingen, gave me the clue
to the place;--an old Swiss town, seventeen miles above Basle,
celebrated in Swiss history as the main fortress defending the
frontier toward the Black Forest. I went there the moment I had got
Turner's sketches arranged in 1858, and drew it with the pen (or
point of brush, more difficult to manage, but a better instrument) on
every side on which Turner had drawn it, giving every detail with
servile accuracy, so as to show the exact modifications he made as he
composed his subjects. Mr. Le Keux has beautifully copied two of
these studies, Plates 83 and 84; the first of these is the bridge
drawn from the spot whence Turner made his upper memorandum;
afterwards, he went down close to the fishing house, and took the
second; in which he unhesitatingly divides the Rhine by a strong
pyramidal rock, in order to get a group of firm lines pointing to his
main subject, the tower (compare § 12, p. 170, above); and throws a
foaming mass of water away to the left, in order to give a better
idea of the river's force; the modifications of form in the tower
itself are all skilful and majestic in the highest degree. The
throwing the whole of it higher than the bridge, taking off the peak
from its gable on the left, and adding the little roof-window in the
centre, make it a perfectly noble mass, instead of a broken and
common one. I have added the other subject, Plate 84,--though I could
not give the Turner drawing which it illustrates,--merely to show the
kind of scene which modern ambition and folly are destroying
throughout Switzerland. In Plate 83, a small dark tower is seen in
the distance, just on the left of the tower of the bridge. Getting
round nearly to the foot of it, on the outside of the town, and then
turning back so as to put the town walls on your right, you may, I
hope, still see the subject of the third plate; the old bridge over
the moat, and older wall and towers; the stork's nest on the top of
the nearest one; the moat itself, now nearly filled with softest
grass and flowers; a little mountain brook rippling down through the
midst of them, and the first wooded promontory of the Jura beyond.
Had Rheinfelden been a place of the least mark, instead of a nearly
ruinous village, it is just this spot of ground which, costing little
or nothing, would have been made its railroad station, and its
refreshment-room would have been built out of the stones of the
towers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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