Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
Less than a mile to the south of the stopping-place Prambanan on the
railroad from Jogja to Solo, are the ruins of a group of _chandis_
which may or may not have borne a monastic character,[117] Sajiwan and
Kalongan being the names connected with it. One of the structures was
cleared in 1893 by the Archaeological Society of Jogjakarta and to its
statuary applies what has been said of the atrocities perpetrated at
Plahosan: besides downright spoliation the same errors of omission and
commission. From Prambanan proper, _i.e._ from the Loro Jonggrang group,
it is a short walk to the _chandi_ Sewu, which means the “thousand
temples”. They are situated in Surakarta, the boundary between the
Susuhunan’s and the Sooltan’s domains, indicated by two white pillars,
running just behind the smaller structures which face the shrines of
Brahma and Vishnu flanking that of Siva. But, though the walk is short,
it may be a trifle too sunny for comfort even if it be morning and the
roads lively with the women returning from market, the surroundings
of the houses of prayer and death gladdening the eye, presenting a
spectacle full of colour and light, the matrons treading their way
statelily and steadily, the maidens, decorous and modest, gliding behind
their elders like the _devis_, the shining ones descended from the
_Ramayana_ reliefs, to exhibit their exquisite forms, bashful however
conscious of their worth in that golden, sweet-scented atmosphere.
They have no business at the _chandi_ Sewu and on the unfrequented
by-path thither we proceed alone, save for a few children with no more
to cover their nakedness than the loveliest innocence--a garment quite
different from the western _cache-misère_ of mawkish prudery--, curious
to find out what the strangers are about. Under their escort we reach
the _chandi_ Loomboong (_padi_-shed), thus called from the size and form
of the ruins which compose it. They are sixteen in number, arranged in
a square round the principal structure, its once octagonal roof, shaped
like a dagob, attesting to its Buddhist character, though it is not
unmixed with Sivaïte elements as the funeral pits plainly indicate. They
were already empty when examined some years ago and the fine statues
tradition speaks of, can nowhere be found. The little ornament left in
place and one single fragment of a bas-relief give a high idea of the
decoration when the beauty of these temples had not yet faded away,
exactly as in the case of the _chandi_ Bubrah,[118] another shrine on
the _via sacra_ which connects the Loro Jonggrang and Sewu groups. To
quote Major van Erp again: The state of affairs here is very sad; of the
_chandis_ Ngaglik, Watu Gudik and Geblak, which the memory of the oldest
inhabitants puts somewhat farther north, even the site cannot now be
located.
[Illustration: XXI. _RAKSASA_ OF THE _CHANDI_ SEWU
(Centrum.)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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