Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
The _pasangrahan_, built for the convenience of visitors to the
Boro Budoor, offers fair accommodation to the student of oriental
architecture and lover of art in whatever form. Also to a good many
who feel it incumbent on them to be able to say: “I have taken
everything in,” or who have quite other ends in view than communion
with the thought of distant ages: foreign tourists whose principal
care is to exhibit trunks and travelling-bags covered with labels of
out-of-the-beaten-track hotels while their brains remain hopelessly
empty; junketers of domestic growth, often in couples whose irregular
relations seek shelter behind the excuse of “doing” the island, and
heartily disinclined to practise the virtues preached in the reliefs
of the shrine of shrines, particularly down on continence. So even the
Philistines derive advantage, after the notions of their kind, from the
ramshackle fabric of vile heathenism, as this magnificent temple has
been called by one of their number, and its visitors’ book tells a sorry
tale of irreclaimable vulgarity; the wit, laboriously aimed at in many
entries, but widely missed, partakes altogether too much (minus the
element of _badinage_) of the answer given by a young naval officer to
an old aunt when she asked him where, in his opinion, the most striking
natural scenery of Java was to be found: At Petit Trouville,[143] said
he, on Sunday in the dry season.
The _pasangrahan’s_ guests of that ilk are generally no early risers and
their company is therefore not likely to mar the impression received
of the Boro Budoor at second sight after supper, supplied by the army
pensioner in charge of the place, and a night’s sound rest. Looking
tranquillity itself, the vast pile charms and soothes the heart,
notwithstanding its enormous size, before the intellect, scrutinising
its outline, begins to marvel at the unaccustomed form the builder has
chosen to proclaim his idea. Save one or two temples in _hinayanistic_
Burmah, which present a faint resemblance, nothing else can be named as
producing the same effect, but then, wrote Fergusson for the land where
the creed was born that inspired its founder, it must be remembered that
not a single structural Buddhist building now exists within the cave
region of Western India. Rising light and airy for all its grandeur, it
expresses more strength than a mere massing together of the ponderous
material in huge walls and buttresses and towers could have done; its
quiet consciousness of power is enhanced by its strange beauty of
contour in perfect harmony with its setting of living colour. There it
lies, clasping together the sapphire sky and the emerald garden of Java.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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