Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
One of the rooms of the _pasangrahan_, reserved, under the old
dispensation, for the storing of detached pieces of sculpture, was
called the sample-room because, according to current report, orders
were taken there for the delivery of such still undetached ornament
and statuary as might have struck the visitors’ fancy. Other images
lined the path from the _pasangrahan_ to the temple, among them two
Dhyani Buddhas, a fine Akshobhya and a still finer Amitabha, and lions,
the poor remainder of those which once adorned the steps leading to
the raised level of the building, whence the name: Avenue of Lions.
Seemingly commanded to descend from the places where they kept guard as
solitary sentinels, and to unite for defence at the point of greatest
danger, terrible havoc was wrought in their ranks by the onslaught
of souvenir-hunters, and one of their large-limbed, beautifully
chiselled chiefs, who himself watched the entrance with a vauntful air
as if proclaiming to foe and friend alike: _Et s’il n’en reste qu’un,
moi je serai celui-là_, had to suffer the ignominy of being captured
and carried off to Siam--which proves his Majesty Chulalongkorn’s good
taste: it was the best specimen of animal carving on that scale in
Java. These are no cheerful reflections when approaching the eminence
skillfully converted into a _stupa_ whose equal, both in originality
of design and cleverness of execution, can nowhere be found. Though
India furnished its prototype, the style here evolved baffles, on close
examination, all comparison. The only building it can be likened to is
the Taj Mahal at Agra, and only in this single respect while differing
in all others, that, conceived by a titanic intellect, the delicate
decoration suggests the minute precision of the jeweller’s craft.
Opening and closing a distinct chapter in architecture, this admirable
production rises in terraces which form galleries round the hill-top,
enclosed by walls, spaced on the outside by 432 niches for statues of
the Buddha with _prabha_ (aureole) and _padmasana_ (lotus cushion), on
the inside with representations illustrating sacred and profane writings
in bas-relief; the galleries of the superstructure raised on the
square ground-plan, become circular and are bounded by 72 bell-shaped
_chaityas_ containing statues of the Buddha without either _prabha_ or
_padmasana_, or any ornament whatever. The profuse decoration of their
surroundings never detracts from the powerfully expressed central
idea of praise to the Enlightened One, the one who has fulfilled his
end; the repetition of the motives manifesting the religious purpose,
directs rather than confuses the attention of the worshipper in their
multiformity of application. The spiritual father of the Boro Budoor
must have been a man of strong mental grasp, of honest masculine
endeavour stimulated by a highly sensitive temperament; his work, “a
goodly heap for to behold,” growing in dignity and beauty the closer
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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