Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
infamous disfiguration and desecration, which makes any one unaccustomed
to Dutch East Indian processes shudder with horror, never disturbed the
aesthetic sense or equanimity of the several occupants of the residency
who, during the last thirty-five years, saw it going on under their
very eyes, the eyes of the representatives of a Government lavish in
circulars[54] recommending the country’s antiquities to their care.
Neither are those eyes shocked by the “museum” adjoining the residency,
a jumble of plunder from _chandis_ far and near; nor by the chaotic mass
of torsos, arms and legs, fragmentary evidence of wholesale spoliation
behind that pitiful exhibition of archaeology turned topsyturvy.
So much for the statuary removed from the _chandis_, as far as it can
be traced. Concerning the _chandis_ themselves, it should be remembered
that the greater part has wholly disappeared. Hillocks, overspread
with brushwood, sometimes awaken hopes that by digging foundations
and portions of walls may be discovered; heaps of debris, tenanted
by lizards and snakes, point to structures of which nothing that is
left, indicates the former use; shattered ornamental stones speak of
magnificent buildings fallen or pulled down--glimmerings of splendour
that was. The temples still standing are reduced to ruins and diminish
almost visibly in attractiveness and size. Rouffaer[55] gave an
interesting example of their fate in the story of the spiriting away
of the _chandi_ Darawati: in 1889 tolerably well preserved, though two
large statues of the Buddha had been dragged off to the dwelling of a
European in the _dessa_ Gedaren, it was gone in 1894--vanished into air!
The temples constructed of brick, like the _chandi_ Abang, have suffered
even more, of course, than those of stone, the memory of whose grandeur
is retained in a few ghastly wrecks. Reserving the Buddhist remains
for later treatment and passing by the Sivaïte caves with rectangular
porches in the Bagelen, mentioned by Fergusson, I shall deal here with
the _chandis_ Suku and Cheto, and the most noteworthy ruins in the
southern mountains. The latter comprise the _kraton_ of Ratu Boko, Mboq
Loro Jonggrang’s father, as the natives call it, and the temple group of
the Gunoong Ijo. Of the legendary kingly residence little more is left
than a square terrace with portions of a wall and the sill of a gate.
The _chandi_ Ijo consists of a large temple of the usual polygonal form
with ten smaller ones and a pit which contained two stone receptacles
and strips of gold-leaf with the image of a deity and an inscription;
the buildings are in a sad condition, but decay has not impaired their
beauteous dignity and the landscape alone repays a visit to Soro Gedoog,
an estate whose gradual reclamation of the jungle led to their discovery
in 1886 when ground was cleared for an extension of the plantations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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