Abdul Jalil, photographic assistant, 59, 319 Abruzzi, Duke of the, 2, 3, 5, 155 Acchu, cook, 103, 133, 178 Acclimatisation to high altitudes, 277, 308, 341 Alpine Club, 1, 7, 14-19, 305 Altitude, effects on human frame, 5, 102, 104-5, 137-8, 154-5, 199, 204, 206-7, 253-4, 276, 307-8, 315, 341; on breathing, 200, 243-4, 277; on tinned fish, 50 Ammo-chu, river, 39, 44, 291 Aneroids, 341 Ang Tenze, coolie, 113, 149-51, 166 Ari, bungalow, 33 Arun, river, 89, 104-5; gorges, 110, 125, 221, 297, 298; _see_ Bhong-chu Avalanches, 231, 267-9, 308-9 Bailey, Major, 31, 314 Bamtso, lake, 49 Bell, Sir Charles, 16, 24, 166 Bhompo's, Buddhist sect, 39 Bhong-chu, river, 64-5, 69-71, 89-90, 93, 99, 100, 110, 159, 161, 295; upper valley, 320, 322; _see_ Arun Bhotias, 24 Bhotia ponies, 27 Bhotia Kosi, river, 338 Birds, 290-303, 312, 344-6 Brahma Putra, river, 61; _see_ Tsangpo Bridges, 69, 93-4, 103, 115, 123, 159-60, 191 Bruce, General, 1, 3, 13, 17, 154, 312 Buchan, J., 19 Buddhism and Buddhists, 25, 67-8, 173; books, 41; red cap sect, 173; yellow cap sect, 58, 173; regard for animal life, 59, 80, 166, 290; _see_ Monasteries, prayer-wheels Bullock, G. H., 19, 26, 52; _see_ Mallory Bullocks, 48, etc.; _see_ Transport Burrard, Sir S., 10-12 Carpo-ri, mountain, 227; ascended, 117, 229-35, 268 Chamlang, mountain, 140 Chandra Nursery, 32 Chang La (North Col), 142; first view of, 204, 207, 212, 220; way to, 233-40, 246-8, 256; camp on, 259-60; best route to, 273-4, 311-12, 334-5 Changtse, North peak of Everest, 142, 213, 215, 233-4 Chelmsford, Lord, 16 Chheten Wangdi, interpreter, 25, 39, 69, 91, 95, 112, 162, 179 Chinese in Tibet, 38-9, 71-2, 173; in Nepal, 71 Chitayn, coolie, 212 Choebuk, monastery and bridge, 82, 95, 190, 191, 312, 327 Choedzong, village, 86 Chog La, 106, 121, 129, 299-300 Choksum, village, 324 Chomiomo, mountain, 52, 54, 140, 166 Chomolhari, mountain, 45, 48, 60, 64, 167, 263 Chomoloenzo, mountain, 114, 116, 149-51 Chomolungma (Mount Everest or Makalu), 13, 24, 107, 224 Chomo-Uri (Mount Everest), 64 Chorabsang, mountain, 77-8; (= Cho Rapsang, 331) Chortens, 40, 66, 174, 286, etc. Cho Uyo, mountain, 73, 76, 78, 101, 207, 219, 330 Choeyling monastery, 194 Chulungphu, village, 89, 104 Chumbi valley, 25, 37-44, 170, 177-8; village, 38; fauna and flora, 291 Chushar Nango, village, 60-61, 131, 134, 295 Chuphar, village and monastery, 327 Chu-tronu, 123 Collie, J. N., 17-18 Compasses, 342 Conway, Sir M., 4, 5 Coolies, 23-5; behaviour, 47, 146, 156, 213, 216, 222-3, etc.; as carriers, 92-4, 113, 122, 158, 284-6; _see_ Transport; in mountaineering, 84, 188, 195, 203-6, 212, 230, 251 ff., 332 Crampons, 207-8, 272 Cups of tea, as measures of distance, 108 Curios, 67, 157 Curzon, Lord, 1, 19