Lachen, 56, 337 Lalbir Singh Thapa, surveyor, 319, 322, 327 Lamna La, 81, 327 Langkor, village and temple, 281, 323 Langma La, 112-13, 130, 224 Langra, rest-house, 37, 178 Lapche, village and monastery, 287, 325-6 Lapche Kang, mountain, 115, 284-5, 325 Lashar, village, 161 Lebong, races at, 27 Leeches, 34-5, 123-4, 126, 300, 337 Lhakpa La (Windy Gap), 138, 161, 273-4; first visits to, 240-249, 255-6; camp on, 140-44, 257-8, 261 Lhasa, 16, 24, 173, 174; road to, 48-49 Lhonak peaks, 52 Lhotse, mountain (S. peak of Everest), 116, 213 Lingga, village, 57, 163-4 Lingmatang, plain, 40, 44, 291 Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 1, 5, 314 Lumeh, village, 93-4, 159 Lungchen La, 322 Lungdoe, village, 110, 125 Lunghi, 167 Macdonald, David and family, 31, 38, 177 Makalu, mountain, 104, 116, 118-19, 137, 186, 225-6, etc.; glacier, 151 Mallory, G. H. L., 19, 26, 313; reconnoitres N. approach to Everest, 74, 181-220; ascends Ri-Ring (23,050 ft.), 205-7, 264; moves to Kharta, 102-106; reconnoitres E. approach to Everest, 117, 221-249; back to Kharta, 130; ascends Kama Changri, 136-7; final assault and ascent of North Col, 131-145, 250-261; leaves Kharta, 153; views on weather conditions, 262-72; on the route up Everest, 273-79 Mammals, 290-303, 312, 344, etc. Mani Walls, 40, 174, etc. Maps of Tibet, 62 "Marigolds, Field of," 119, 152 Matsang, village, 125 Meade, C. F., 5, 17, 19 Mendalongkyo, 129 Mende, village, 57 Menkhap-to and -me, villages, 322 Menlung pass, 327 "Metohkangmi," 141 Mila Respa, saint, 287 Monasteries, 99, 113, 173. _See_ Donka, Galinka, Ganden Choefel, Rongbuk, Shekar Choete, etc. Monsoon, 31, 48, 88, 91, 139, 216, 248, 262 ff. _See_ Rainfall Morshead, Major H. T., 20, 25-27, 54, 65, 75, 96; trip to Nyenyam, 97, 108, 281-9, 323-5; at Kharta, 112; survey of Kharta Valley, 131-2, 135; first ascent of Lhakpa La, 130, 230-49; ascends Kama Changri, 136-7; second ascent of Lhakpa La, 140-144, 253-8; map by, 312, 338; account of survey by, 319-28 Mountain sickness, 207, 258, 323. _See_ Altitude Mountaineering, 2-4, 6-8, 305-6 Mules, lent by Government, 27-8; breakdown of, 33-4; Tibetan, 32-33, 48, etc. _See_ Transport Nangba (= Khombu), pass, 77, 331 Narsing, mountain, 26 Nathu La, 37 Nawang Lobsang, first Dalai Lama, 173 Nepal, 13 Nepalese coolies, 25, 122; invasion of Tibet, 71, 73; traders, 122, 127, 324; herdsmen, 126 Nezogu bridge, 100, 102 Ngawangyonten, official, 94 Nieves penitentes, 78 Nila pass, 61, 184 Noel, Major J. B. L., 14, 314 Nomads, 51, 171 North Col of Everest, 212, 215. _See_ Chang La North cwm of Everest, 200, 203-4 North peak. _See_ Chang-tse North-East Arete, 215, 227, 235, 250-51, 259, 274-6, 310 Norton, Major E. F., 313 Nuns and nunneries, 51, 80, 83, 166 Nyenyam, 73, 97, 108, 283-4, 297, 324 Nyima Tendu, coolie, 113, 149-51, 234