Mr. Punch's History of Modern England, Vol. 2 (of 4).—1857-1874Graves, Charles L. (Charles Larcom)
History
Mr. Punch's History of Modern England, Vol. 2 (of 4).—1857-1874
Graves, Charles L. (Charles Larcom)
Great Britain -- History -- Victoria, 1837-1901 -- Humor
Crinoline at length is going out, thank goodness! but long,
trailing dresses are coming in, thank badness! In matters of
costume lovely woman rarely ceases to make herself a nuisance; and
the length of her skirt now is almost as annoying as, a while ago,
its width was. _Robes à queue_ they call these draggling dresses;
but it is not at Kew merely that people are tormented by them.
Everywhere you walk, your footsteps are impeded by the ladies, who,
in Pope's phrase, "drag their slow length along" the pathway just
in front of you. "Will anybody tread upon the tail of my
petticoat?" This seems to be the general invitation they now give.
Sad enemies to progress they are, in their long dresses; and a
Reform Bill should be passed to make them hold their tails up.
[Illustration: A REMARKABLE STUDY FROM NATURE]
But the new nuisance was trifling compared with the old, and relief
predominated in the "Rhymes to Decreasing Crinoline" published a few
months earlier. It was not, however, until 1867 that crinolines
practically disappeared in fashionable circles, and that long skirts
were curtailed to reasonable dimensions.
Though chiefly preoccupied with skirts, _Punch_ bestowed a good deal of
attention on the vagaries of feminine headgear. In 1857 the huge round
hats in vogue moved him to protest. They were discredited, in his view,
when worn by elderly ladies, but he allowed them the negative merit of
having displaced the "ugly." The "dear little Spanish hat, so charming
and so much more sensible than a horrid bonnet" shown in the picture of
a stout lady of uncertain age, justifies the reservation "on some
people." But the hat was entering into a serious competition with the
bonnet, and by 1860 the "pork-pie hat," so indelibly associated with
Leech's portraits of mid-Victorian girls, was firmly established in
favour and gradually ousting the spoon-shaped bonnet which disappeared
in 1865. This growing popularity of the hat trimmed with feathers, as
opposed to bonnets trimmed with ribbons, had the result of causing
considerable distress in the ribbon trade in Coventry. _Punch_, though
"no lover of extravagance," found himself accordingly driven to urge his
lady readers to flock to their dressmakers and drapers and purchase as
many hat-ribbons as possible. They could justify their action by singing
in the slightly adapted words of the old song,
All round my hat I wear a new ribbon,
All round my hat a new ribbon every day,
And if anyone should ask of me the reason why I wear it,
"'Tis to help the poor of Coventry who are wanting work," I'll say.
The appeal was followed up a week later by an ingenious
and graceful picture of the new Lady Godiva riding through
Coventry in a costume composed entirely of ribbons.
[Sidenote: _Chignons_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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