Mr. Punch's History of Modern England, Vol. 3 (of 4).—1874-1892Graves, Charles L. (Charles Larcom)
History
Mr. Punch's History of Modern England, Vol. 3 (of 4).—1874-1892
Graves, Charles L. (Charles Larcom)
Great Britain -- History -- Victoria, 1837-1901 -- Humor
In the last three lines we find the whole essence and spirit of Du
Maurier's method. He proved to demonstration again and again that women
could dress in the fashion of the moment and be delightful to look at,
so long as they were the judicious interpreters and not the Slaves of
Mode. If he saw no beauty in the designs of the "Rationalists," and
habitually ridiculed the sprawling attitudes, the shapeless garments,
and unwholesome languor of the female "æsthetes," he did not spare the
monstrosities and barbarities of the ultra-fashionables. The age of
lateral expansion had given place to a craze for compression, to the
"eel-skin" model. Skirts were so tight in 1875 that Du Maurier suggests
that upholsterers should devise a special sort of chair suited to the
peculiar exigencies of ladies who can neither stoop nor sit down. Three
years later a lady and a hussar officer at a dance are depicted as
both equally unable to depart from a rigidly perpendicular attitude.
Tight lacing was again in fashion but met with no approval from
_Punch_. In 1877 Du Maurier depicts a lady resolutely determined to
lace down to the waist measurement of a rival, and _Punch_ quotes with
approval Miss Frances P. Cobbe's indictment of the causes which led to
the "Little Health of Women." Besides tight lacing the list includes
the neglect of exercise, the discouragement of appetite, sentimental
brooding over disappointments, the lack of healthy occupation for
mind and body, false hair, bonnets that don't protect the head, heavy
dragging skirts, high heels and "pull-backs"--a tolerably comprehensive
catalogue. _Punch_ renews his attack on tightly-laced pinched-in
figures in his Horatian ode to "A Modern Pyrrha" in 1880, and in 1889
Jones, after offering the wasp-waisted Miss Vane tea and strawberries
at a garden party, remarks to himself: "By Jove! she takes 'em--she's
going to swallow 'em! But where she'll put 'em--goodness knows!"
[Illustration: A MODERN WAIST
JONES (_to himself, as he offers Miss Vane a cup of tea and
some strawberries_): "By Jove! She takes 'em--she's going to swallow
'em! But where she'll _put_ 'em--goodness knows!"]
[Illustration: TO UPHOLSTERERS, etc.
Now that fashionable skirts are worn so tight that the fair wearers
thereof can neither stoop nor sit down, it might be worth somebody's
while to devise a chair suited to the peculiar exigencies of the
positions.]
[Illustration: FASHIONABLE EMULATION
LADY (_speaking with difficulty_): "What have you made it
round the waist, Mrs. Price?"
DRESSMAKER: "Twenty-one inches, ma'am. You couldn't _breathe_
with less!"
LADY: "What's Lady Jemima Jones's waist?"
DRESSMAKER: "Nineteen-and-a-half just now, ma'am. But her
Ladyship's a head shorter than you are, and she's got ever so much
thinner since her illness last autumn?"
LADY: "Then make it _nineteen_, Mrs. Price, and _I'll_ engage
to get into it!"]
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