In vain, too, did they look for traces of the great kingdoms described
by the early Portuguese explorers, or of the churches and cities
founded by the Europeans in the early days of Portuguese national
and Christian enterprise. For the most part they were met only by
the dark depths of malarious mangrove swamps, and the profound
stillness and impenetrable vegetation of the tropical forest, though
here and there in the clearings were miserable villages, inhabited
by idle, good-humoured natives, with a decided appetite for ardent
spirits--seemingly the only legacy permanently left behind by the
Europeans.
Pushing up the river, they at length reached the first cataracts of the
Congo, which, instead of proving to be another Niagara, seemed to their
jaundiced eyes “a comparative brook bubbling over its stony bed”--a
description, needless to say, not confirmed by subsequent expeditions.
Unable to proceed further in their boats, Tuckey and his companions
continued the exploration by land, and in spite of the extreme
difficulties they had to encounter in cutting their way through
pathless forests without a guide, they surmounted the first stretch
of falls, and reached a point where the river widened and presented
no difficulties to navigation. Unhappily, however, the old story of
disease commenced. Three of the principal men had successively to
return to the ship; and finally Tuckey and his companion Smith, the
botanist, abandoned their projects, seeing their further progress
hopeless in face of so many difficulties and their own helpless
condition under the paralysing influence of disease. They reached the
ship to find their three companions dead. Smith was the next victim.
Finally, overcome by depression and mental anxiety, Captain Tuckey died
also. How many sailors succumbed we are not told.
Meanwhile no better luck fell to the lot of the other section of the
expedition.
On the 14th December, this party, consisting of 100 men and 200
animals, under the command of Major Peddie, landed at the mouth of the
Rio Nunez, nearly midway between the Gambia and Sierra Leone. Major
Peddie’s intention was to pass across the narrow part between the Ocean
and the Niger. Hardly had he landed, however, before the fell demon
of disease, which in its foul lair keeps watch and ward over the fair
expanse of Inner Africa, laid its invisible hand upon him, and ere the
march was begun he found a grave in the land he had come to explore.
Under Captain Campbell the expedition experienced only a succession
of disasters. The donkeys rapidly perished under the hands of men
unaccustomed to look after them. Food was only to be obtained with the
utmost difficulty, and at ruinous prices.
Arrived near the frontiers of the Fulah country, they were detained for
four months owing to the suspicions entertained towards them by the
king and his people.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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