Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
I was at the castle an hour and a half altogether. The President had
the use of Pani, or of his wife as interpreters if he wished. But he
said nothing interesting, and asked nothing. I have an explanation for
this in my own mind: In Mexico it is not easy for a woman to be taken
seriously. In England, in the States and especially in Russia (where
among the Intellectuals woman is on a perfect equality with men) it
is natural that clever men should think it worth while to talk to a
woman on subjects of mutual interest. But in Mexico woman is on such
a different plane. I am told for instance that a “feminist movement”
exists, but consists barely of 50 women! For the rest, they are the
very carefully guarded mothers of families, and utterly submissive in
spirit. I shall never forget the way Madame Pani asked me, the day I
lunched there: “Are you here in our country all alone...?” Who in the
world did she think I would be with...?
TUESDAY, AUGUST 9, 1921.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 10, 1921.
Two days, one night and a half night getting from Mexico to Tampico.
We had a “salon” and so were not too uncomfortable. Personally I
rather enjoy the incident of travel and in Mexico one usually does
not travel without adventure. Usually one derails. On this occasion
we just stopped (with a great jerk) for a couple of hours because our
engine’s piston-rod broke. It was a bleak and dusty place where maize
grew and not much fun. We next stopped because an oil box was on fire,
but that did not delay us greatly, finally we stopped two more hours
because the train in front had derailed. We walked up the line to see
what had happened, the engine was back on the rails, and a good many
Indians were at work mending the track. I looked at the lines with an
ignorant unprofessional eye, and then I asked questions ...: Should
the wooden sleepers be rotten and splitting? Should the screws be
entirely missing where two lines were riveted together? Should “pins”
stick up half an inch? and then I watched the efforts of four men at
the “points” trying to close the lines. They pulled at levers, and
finally hammered the line into place! This Railway is owned by American
shareholders, and the Mexican Government has not given it back yet,
because it cannot pay the damages for the deterioration it has suffered
at their hands. Meanwhile it deteriorates more every day, and I suppose
each train that passes renders the track more dangerous than the last.
During this interval, Dick, who found a pool in a ditch went into
bathe. It was a muddy pool where cattle drink. Dick took off all his
clothes and swam in it. Afterwards the sun quickly dried him and on
our way back to the train we called on an Indian lady who stood at her
home door. She was old. Her home was made transparently of irregular
bamboo sticks, oddments of dried palmleaf and some sacking. The roof
was thatched, the floor was mud. Two planks, raised each on four wooden
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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