Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The news spread like wildfire, and we who imagined we were far from
human habitations, suddenly found ourselves with about 50 men on our
hands! They appeared at dusk from every direction. They hailed the
ferry on both sides of the mainland, they arrived all smartened up, and
by the light of our lanterns and our few colored paper lights, we saw
rows of white bloused Indians in their best hats. Our dance floor had
been especially arranged for the occasion--all the weeds and creeping
water melon and small palms had been grubbed; the earth levelled and
quite a big space in between the two barns was rolled and ready. Four
felled tree trunks were the seats that outlined it--and on these, the
Indians sat in rows, like birds contemplatively.
The arrival on the dance ground of the four specially invited women was
full of formal ceremony. They were preceded by the wife of our landlord
and by the cook’s wife--one behind the other, in silence they walked.
At sight of them the row of men on the nearest tree rose and fled as
one man, and distributed themselves elsewhere like magic, leaving the
seat to the women, who sat on it all in a solemn row.
When the music tuned up, the bravest men walked across the ground,
selected their partners with a bow and a fine sweep of Mexican
sombrero, and before dancing they paraded round and round the ground
two by two. They never smiled. The women kept their heads bowed
and their eyes glued to the ground. When spoken to they did not
answer,--their whole attitude was maddeningly submissive and full of
humility.
When they danced it was a very fast two step, and the man held his
girl at a very respectful distance. She did not appear to lean on him
or touch him. They also danced a little country dance, monotonous and
dull, of little shifting steps in lines opposite one another. I danced
once with my landlord, and the rest of the time with the Texas “Apache”
boy. I am told the evening was a success. It looked to me dull and sad
in the extreme. One hoped up to the last moment that the party would
cheer up and get merry, but even rum served all round did not stimulate
them. I am told the Indians are like that. Stoically melancholy. Such
an evening compares curiously with the same as it would be in Italy,
Spain or Russia--there is hardly a country one can think where the
native is not stirred by national dances and music. The men as well
as the women looked rather apathetic and passive and stupid--out of
the lot I noticed only one man who had individuality, stature and fine
features. He had the appearance of a stage bandit and assurance of
manner that set him conspicuously apart from the others. He wore high
boots and immaculate white linen coat and a large revolver in a holster
on his belt. I asked about him--he kept a store some way down the river.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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