Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
To while away our waiting moments, Dick and I, in company with a
representative of the Baldwin Locomotive works, went to an amateur
bull-fight in celebration of the Centenario. A feeble amateur affair
it was. Nothing illustrative of Mexico bull-fighting. A bedraggled
show, neither decorative, spectacular nor well fought. Mercifully the
bull’s horns were sawn off at the tips so we were spared the sight of
horses ripped up and trailing entrails. But I saw enough of blood and
brutality. The audience cheered, laughed, sang, shouted. Almost it
sounded like a baseball game. The more blood flowed, the more they
shouted with joy. The bulls were young ones, too young to be very
fierce. They would not face the horses at all, and to enliven them, the
bandolaria were charged with a time fuse and exploded like a firework
with loud detonations, and burnt interiorly. For some time after the
explosion, smoke emanated from the burnt, black, bleeding wound in the
bull’s back. One animal in terror jumped the paling. The killing with
the sword at the end was bungled every time. The sword missed the vital
spot and was plunged up to the hilt in the brute’s shoulder, to be
withdrawn, on the first opportunity, dripping with blood, and restruck
again, and again. The mob cheering the while. When the last bull was
killed the crowd flooded the ring, and the dead bull was mutilated by
people who carried away bits of it as souvenirs. When the carcass had
been finally dragged away on a rope by two mules and a pool of blood
marked the spot, boys besieged it, dipped naked feet in it, seemed
hypnotized and enthralled by the sight and touch of blood.
The horrible thing is that after the sixth bull had been tormented to
death, one’s own feelings as regards the sight of blood were almost
blunted. Frankly I longed to see a man killed for a change, instead of
the bull. There was something ridiculous about these swaggering men
with their long lances, astride horses that could hardly stand up,
and that had to be urged towards the bull by men who lashed them from
behind. Chiefly the bull seemed to be pursued more than pursuing.
SEPTEMBER 27, 1921. _San Antonio, Texas._
My appeal to Washington met with a response that has been a revelation
to me of American chivalry. We passed the border yesterday at dawn. I
faced it with some trepidation, but we received the greatest courtesy
and consideration. After reexamination of Dick (who is much better)
they retracted the verdict of trachoma.
Six weeks accumulation of mail has met me here. My head is buzzing with
taking it all in. The reading did not cheer me. From England, on all
sides gloomy accounts politically and privately. They ask me to return
to their gloom. Of course one has occasional moments of homesickness
when the desire to see one’s own world is overwhelming. But one is
happier away here. There is daylight instead of darkness. There is
air to breath. There’s life. Everything and everyone is young, vital,
active, hopeful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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