Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
All along the motor road even in what looked like primitive wilds, one
was distracted all the time by placards on the road which hampered
one’s conversation. Mostly they were directions for the motor driver
who it was taken for granted must be a complete idiot. It left him
no choice, no doubt whatever as to the right thing to do. “Blow your
horn”--“Dangerous curve ahead” accompanied by a diagram illustrating
the kind of curve to expect,--further directions as to what to do with
the throttle, etc., etc., and wherever there was a flat wood fence
there was inscribed a reminder that Christ loved me, and the option of
deciding whether I would sin, or choose the other path. Occasionally we
were informed “Picture ahead, Kodak as you go.” Apparently a man may
be blind, the state will see for him.
As the day advanced we speeded, so as to catch the sun before it set
into the sea. We fetched up eventually at his sister’s house which is
above the rocks on the wild seashore, known as Pebble Beach. The house,
which has arcades and is Italian in design, reminded me of Shelley’s
house at Lerici, the house to which Shelley was sailing back from
Sorrento, when the storm overtook him and he was drowned. The peace,
the loneliness, and the sea sounds that pervaded this house on the
Pacific shore were balm to my socially weary soul. I walked in the dusk
among the gnarled and tortuous storm beaten cedars of Lebanon that have
their roots among the rocks. These are the only trees that grow, and
the only place where they grow. No one can explain how the seeds were
brought, whether by hand of human, or by a bird, or with the wind.
But here on this coast, with the grip of centuries that no storm can
dislodge, and with their heads as bright young green as their stems are
old and warped, the cedars of Lebanon reign supreme.
I was sorry that I had only one night to spend, it seemed too beautiful
to leave so soon.
I know that some day, when I have seen all I want to see of people,
when I have travelled more and allayed some of my curiosity, when I
have worked some more and am more tired, then I will go away into
a silent and lonely and beautiful place and never more be seen, and
my children will say: “We have a funny old mother, who lives way off
somewhere, and whom we go and visit now and then.”
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 21. _Monterey._
Next morning we motored along the coast, visited the old mission of
San Juan, which is interesting. The guide showing us over the church
announced impressively that it was 170 years old. “Is _that_ all?” I
exclaimed, looking round at the primitive walls that might have been
archaic and pre-historic. My companion in reply commented on “the
_arrogance_ of foreigners” and completely shut me up.
We then went and called at the house of Francis McComus, the painter.
He and his wife were in. Mrs. McComus is the first human being I have
ever seen who looks like a Gauguin, and attractive, which I never
thought a Gauguin!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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