Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
A lovely sunshiny morning (one has learned to appreciate that!), and we
boarded a tram at the Zocolo and went to Zochimilco. It took an hour.
We went as fast as a train across long straight stretches of plain. A
big barefooted Indian insisted on talking to me, rapidly and at great
length, in spite of my repeated “non entiendo.” Perhaps he thought I
was only pretending not to understand, which is true, for I gathered he
belonged to Zochimilco, owned a boat on the “lago” and wished to be our
cicerone! As I knew nothing about him and dislike persistency, I turned
a cold shoulder upon him.
Our tram took us across the plain and close up to the mountain feet.
Arrived at the region of lakes and floating islands and with no one to
turn to for information, the only strangers among a world of Indians,
I humbly followed the persistent guide. He had an ugly but kindly
face, and such a clean white smock that it gave us confidence in
him. We followed him for some way along a narrow cobbled way, where
wide eyed Indian girls wrapped around in blue shawls, looked at us
curiously. After a while I stopped dead, and intimated that I wanted
to find the lakes. Our guide looked hurt, even uglier for a moment,
and I understood him to assure us he was “secure”--and that we need
have no anxiety. A blind man, young, bare-legged, his head held
high as all blind men do, came tapping after us with his stick. They
always give me the creeps. I want to run in a panic, when I hear the
tap-tap. He stopped when the church bell sounded and taking his hat
off, he recited rapid prayers. I wonder if he was very philosophical
about his blindness, or what his mental attitude could be towards his
God. At this juncture however, we arrived at a canal, and our guide
led us through a door-way into the courtyard of a house by the water
side. Around the fountain some women were cleaning meat. I prepared my
kodak, but everyone melted away, and an old grey-haired hag shrieked at
me! A big man loomed into the background. He looked half-bred, rather
negroid, and had a severe questioning expression. I made a bolt for the
boat! This was a species of punt, with poles garlanded, and an awning
overhead, made of a faded Mexican flag. It was crude and picturesque.
In a moment we were under way and being punted noiselessly, along
the canal which joins the lakes. The small poplar-like trees that
were reflected avenues in the water, reminded me of Holland. The
islands were all luxuriant with flowers, there seemed to be acres of
carnations, mixed with pansies and chrysanthemums. In the water grew a
lovely “aquatic lily,” as our guide called it. I have never seen one
like it. The flower was mauve and like a small rhododendron. There
were yellow water lilies as well, and arum lilies on the water’s edge.
As we passed under a weeping willow, an irridescent humming bird flew
out. I had never dreamed of seeing one outside of the Natural History
Museum. The vision of it crowned my day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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