Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The weather I am assured is “unusual”.... On the way home we passed a
trolley car full of men. It was at a standstill and there seemed to be
a good-humored dispute going on, between one of the men in the trolley
and another who was attempting to board it. The man in the trolley
threatened the other by brandishing an iron bar. The other disregarding
him continued his efforts to climb. With a resounding blow, which we
could hear above the sound of our motor, the iron bar smote the man on
the temple, so that he dropped, stunned to the ground. A woman screamed
and ran to pick him up. But he picked himself up, and two small rocks
at the same time. Our car turned a corner, and the sequel was lost to
view.
“They hold life very lightly,” Mrs. Conway said with indifference. She
has lived here for some years.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 13, 1921.
Mrs. Conway fetched me in the morning and we went to the National
Museum. I was in search of the War God Huitzil, the one that Cortez
threw down from the height of the Teocali after the great fight.
Mr. Terry’s guide book says it is in the Museum, but I could find it
nowhere. Upon inquiry one person said it was in a Convent, another that
it was built into the walls of the Cathedral, a third that it was among
the foundations of the National Palace! But if I failed in discovering
my god, the accumulation of Gods and of sculptured stone contained in
that small gallery in the National Museum was a revelation. The moment
I walked in I was amazed. This is work that rivets one’s attention.
The people who created these things have the right to a very important
place in art. The Aztec calendar stone one knows well, it has been
so often reproduced, but the reliefs on the sacrificial stones, are
equally wonderful,--almost pure Assyrian in feeling.
The great flat screenlike stone, representing the goddess of the Moon,
is full of design, beauty and terror. They demanded much, these Gods,
and I imagine they were served more out of fear than of love. Theirs
was a jealous god, and a god of vengeance. There was Chauticalli, the
crouching tiger, demanding the votive offering of human hearts, for
which he carries a cup sunk in his own back.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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