Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
Mr. Conway having last night at midnight settled his tramway strike to
his satisfaction, we started off at 9 A.M. in his car, with a friend
of his and made for the Pyramids of San Juan Teotihuacan. It was very
cold at the start and by the time we got to San Cristobal the sun was
out and we stopped to photograph the monument to Morelos, the Mexican
revolutionary patriot. He is buried here, opposite his house. The
monument, which is thoroughly modern, simple and forceful, resembles
some of the new Russian revolutionary sculpture. Further on we
stopped again and looked at a church. It stands alone in a wind-swept
plain which had once been flooded. The floods had raised the earth
about twelve feet above the original surface, so the carvings of the
beautiful archway were low down on the ground instead of being high
up. It had been an old Monastery, and the cloisters had just recently
been excavated. It is amazing the way one comes upon a perfect gem
of Spanish Renaissance architecture, in the wilds among fields of
cactus. Sometimes there is not even a village in the vicinity. The
inside of the church, with its rather Moorish vaulted roof and its
Italian frescoed walls would have been very lovely, but for the usual
additions that characterize either the Spanish or the Mexican Romanism,
of which I have already complained. The one illumination to this gloom
was the quantities of song birds inside the church that flew about
the roof and among the altars, fanning the noses of the melancholy
Saints, whilst their songs reverberated through the echoing building.
Outside the door, an iridescent humming-bird was sucking honey from
a wild flower. Among the loose stones of the old cemetery wall, we
picked up a small terra-cotta Aztec head of an ape. Beyond this place
we got hopelessly lost for some time and wandered through villages of
which the roads seemed all alike. These villages are built of adobe
or mud bricks, and the houses are square, flat roofed and windowless.
They probably have been this way ever since Aztec times. The people we
saw were pure Indian, without any drop of Spanish blood. There seems
to be a great deal of lameness and blindness, especially the latter,
owing to the prevalence of disease among the parents. Infant mortality
in Mexico, is, I am told on reliable authority, higher than that of
any other country in the world. But to continue ... our lost way was
extremely interesting. Sometimes our road lay hemmed in on either side
by high impenetrable hedges, formed by the organ cactus, which the
Indians plant to wall in their gardens or farm yards. Hardly any of
the road was road at all, it was either rock or stream, on a tract
among the plantations of the pulque cactus. The car was an 8-cylinder
Cadillac. It seemed to take anything competently and uncomplainingly.
Never have I seen an owner so fatalistic, or a driver so calm under
adversity. I felt we _must_ turn over sometimes, but we did not, nor
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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