Mexico -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
The view from the summit was awesome. Great mountain peaks dwarfed
us, and a little way beyond stood the pyramid of the Moon, and the
“Road of the Dead” with its small sentinel Teocalis all along the way,
leading from the “Moon” past us, to the distant so-called Citadel.
We lunched nearby in a great natural cave, which had long zigzagging
steps that led down into it, and made one feel rather theatrical and
Ali-Babaish! After luncheon we went to this “Citadel,” where the new
excavations and restorations are taking place. No one is allowed to go
near it, and little is known about it as yet. The discoveries are going
on apace, and promise to be among the most dramatically interesting in
the American Continent. I suppose some day the world will awaken to the
wonders here, and will give it their attention instead of constantly
re-treading the well worn paths of archaeological Europe and Egypt.
Sheltered, hidden, protected behind an Aztec Teocali, there has just
been revealed another of infinitely earlier date of which little, if
anything, is as yet surmised. To date, four tiers of sculptured walls
have been unearthed and in between these terraces straight up from
the base to the as yet uncovered summit, are wide steep stone steps,
the side slopes of which are punctuated by enormous dragon heads.
These same heads, slightly varied, stood out from the wall of the four
terraces, one above the other, from a low relief background. The eyes
of the great stone dragon-heads are set with obsidian, a black volcanic
glass which the district produces. There are signs of color on these
sculptures. The whole thing is barbaric, and overwhelmingly effective.
It suggested to my mind something very definitely Chinese. It was a
great privilege to be able to see this new discovery and to be allowed
to take photographs. We were told by an official to whom Mr. Conway
gave his name, that we might climb anywhere, and take what photographs
we pleased. This, after our first reception by an officious but dutiful
underling, who forbade us to do anything we wanted to do, was a heaven
sent relief!
Around us in a gigantic square, walls, and steps and Teocalis were
being restored. The centre may prove to have been a gigantic arena,
that was what the space and its shape suggested to me, but all
conjecture in this place is futile. No one knows ... it is no good
asking or seeking or imagining. It is the great mystery of the World’s
History. Perhaps if the fanatical first Spanish Viceroy had not burnt
all the Indian records something might be known. As it is, unless
something is revealed, we shall continue in ignorance. A little feeling
of pride came over me, as I viewed these monuments from the top of the
Teocali, and realized that sculpture had survived where painting, and
life, and race, and history and tradition even had faded away. Almost
one might dare to say that sculpture that is monumental is immortal.
SATURDAY, JULY 16, 1921. _Mexico City._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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