My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga HillsJohnstone, James, Sir
History
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
Johnstone, James, Sir
Manipur (India) -- Description and travel; Naga Hills (India) -- Description and travel
After leaving Susa Kameng, the valley narrowed for some miles, and
then we crossed a ridge about 1000 feet above it, and finally descended
into a charming little upland valley, which, but for the Kukis, those
terrible enemies of trees and animal life, would be the cherished home
of wild elephants. After crossing this, we again made a slight descent,
and found ourselves close to the camp on a lovely stream. There I
found Bularam Singh, who was to be minister in attendance on me during
my march, that part of the country being under his jurisdiction. The
next day we went on to Noong-suong-kong over a most lovely country,
often 5000 feet above the sea, and with hill villages in the most
romantic situation; and--remarkable sign of the peace produced by
the rule of Manipur--we met large numbers of unarmed wayfarers. This
day we also saw terrace cultivation, in which the Tankhools excel,
and rhododendrons in full flower, a splendid sight. The next day,
after another most interesting march, we halted in a pretty upland
valley, 5100 feet above the sea; the valley was long, and a stream
meandered through it, the banks being clothed with willows and wild
pear trees, covered with blossoms. The hillsides were well-wooded,
the trees being chiefly pines with rhododendrons here and there.
On March 14th, we descended the Kongou-Chow-Ching, and in a village I
saw for the first time shingle roofs. We passed the last fir tree at
5800 feet, and reached the watershed at 7300 feet. At the top of the
pass in a slightly sheltered position, was a solitary rhododendron. The
cold was so great that, though walking, I was glad to put on a thick
great-coat; the winds were exceedingly piercing. Some of the hills
round were denuded of trees, and the hill people said that it was
the severity of the winds that prevented their growth. The view from
the highest point was splendid, on all sides a magnificent array of
hills and valleys. Near to us were some of the most luxuriant forests I
have ever seen, the trees of large size, and many of them with gnarled
trunks, recalling the giants of an English park. Under some of these
trees was a greensward where it would have been delightful to encamp,
had time allowed, but the difficulty of obtaining water limits one's
halting place in the hills. Everywhere on the western face of the hills
pines seemed to stop at 5800 feet; but on the east they rose to 9400!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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