My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga HillsJohnstone, James, Sir
History
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
Johnstone, James, Sir
Manipur (India) -- Description and travel; Naga Hills (India) -- Description and travel
The houses were more like those of the Tankhools than the Angamis,
and contained round tubs for beer cut out of a solid block of wood,
in shape like old-fashioned standard churns. The village contained
pigs and dogs, and the houses were decorated with cows' and buffaloes'
horns. We were welcomed in a friendly way, but our hosts did not
seem to like the idea of our staying the night, of which we had no
intention. Our watches and binoculars greatly interested them. We
tried in vain to induce the women to come out, the men saying they
feared lest we should seize them. This seemed very strange, as it was
the only hill village I ever saw where the women had the slightest
objection to appear. As the Manipuris always respect women, it could
not be due to their presence, even had they had experience of them,
which was not the case. On leaving the village, we passed through
a splendid grove of giant bamboos, and then turned into our old path
again. Metomi was said to contain seven hundred houses, but that seemed
to me a very low estimate. We reached our camp near Jessami at 7 P.M.,
narrowly escaping a severe scorching, as some torch-bearers who came
to meet us, set fire to the grass prematurely, and we had to run hard
to escape the flames. I wanted to make a vocabulary of the Metomi
language the next day, but the whole village had a drinking bout,
and every one was incapacitated during the rest of our stay.
We marched to a place called Lapvomai on February 3rd, and next day,
wishing to explore the country beyond, Dun and I, with a picked party
of Manipuris, crossed the ridge above the village, and descending
to the stream below, began the ascent of the great Eastern range,
encamping in a most lovely spot in a pine forest. Every one was
too tired to search for water, so the Manipuris went supperless to
bed. Dun and I had brought a supply, which we shared with our few
Naga followers, the Manipuris being prevented from doing the same,
by their caste prejudices. Early next morning we started up the hill
again, leaving the bulk of our party a mile or two in advance of our
halting place, to search for water and cook. We, with two or three
plucky Manipuris, whom hunger and thirst could not induce to leave
us, pursued our upward path. At last we came on patches of snow, and
in a hollow tree found the remains of a bear which had gone there to
die. After a toilsome ascent, often impeded by a thick undergrowth of
thorny bamboo, we, having long passed the region of fir trees, reached
the summit at 8000 feet, only to find, to our great disappointment,
a spur from the main range blocking our view. As this range might have
taken another day to surmount, and after all be only the precursor
of another, we reluctantly traced our steps backwards, and reached
our party who found water and cooked their food. We witnessed some
amusing instances of rapid eating, on the part of our hungry followers,
who had well deserved their dinner. We then descended to the stream,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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