My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga HillsJohnstone, James, Sir
History
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
Johnstone, James, Sir
Manipur (India) -- Description and travel; Naga Hills (India) -- Description and travel
The Great Gate was a picturesque half-timber structure, with rooms on
either side, one of which I built specially as a pneumonia hospital,
so it was designed with a view to maintaining an equable temperature,
pneumonia being a great scourge among newly arrived Hindoostani
sepoys. Not long after I left, it was diverted to other purposes,
being considered too good for a hospital!
"With the exception of the Residency, no house when I left Manipur,
was built of brick, partly from fear of earthquakes, partly on
account of expense. The ordinary houses of the people are huts with
wattle and daub or mud walls, those of greater folks the same, but
on a larger scale. Every house has a verandah in front with the main
entrance leading from it, and a little side door on the north side
close to the west end, the houses invariably facing east. The roofs
are all of thatch, with the exception of the Rajah's, which was of
corrugated iron. There were several temples built of brick stuccoed
over. One in the palace had an iron roof, another a gilded one. I
sent some models of these temples and several other buildings to the
Indian and Colonial Exhibition of 1886, every beam and rafter being
represented and made according to scale. The larger of the temples
had bells of a fine deep tone. Some of the approaches to the Rajah's
dwelling-house were made of brick. Formerly the palace enclosure
was entered from the front by a quaint and picturesque old gateway,
not beautiful, but characteristic of Manipur; the old Rajah Chandra
Kirtee Singh substituted for it a tawdry and fantastic structure with
a corrugated iron roof, a structure without any merit, and quite out
of keeping with its surroundings. I remonstrated in vain; shoddy and
vulgar tastes had penetrated even to Manipur, and the picturesque
old building that spoke of bygone ages was doomed; but we who have
destroyed so many fine buildings, have little right to criticise.
"Close to the gateway is the place where the grand stand is erected,
from which the Rajah and his relations view the boat races on the
palace moat. I say 'view,' as in old age, a Rajah sits there all
the time; but in the prime of life he takes part in these races,
steering one of the boats himself. These boat races generally take
place in September when the moat is full, and are the great event
of the year. Every one turns out to see them, the Ranees and other
female relations being on the opposite side of the moat, for in Manipur
there is no concealment of women, while the side next to the road is
thronged with spectators. The boatmen have a handsome dress peculiar
to the occasion, and the whole scene is highly interesting. The boats
are canoes hewn out of single trees of great size, and are decorated
with colour and carving." [21]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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