My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga HillsJohnstone, James, Sir
History
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
Johnstone, James, Sir
Manipur (India) -- Description and travel; Naga Hills (India) -- Description and travel
The spring in Manipur is a charming time, the nights are still cool,
though the days are hot, and abundance of flowering trees come into
blossom; among them one that attains a considerable size, called
in Manipuri "Chinghow." It has two kinds, one with pink and the
other white and pink flowers, Out in the hills are wild pears and
azaleas in abundance, and rhododendrons, while here and there are
beautiful orchids. The oak forests too are splendid with the fresh
young leaves, and every hill village has peach trees in flower, so
that it is a delightful season for marching, and one can be out from
morning till night. I took advantage of the fine weather, and early
in April again visited the Yoma range, and went along the road to
Jangapokee Tannah, as far as a place called Kombang, 4600 feet above
the sea. On my way there and back I halted at Haitoo-pokpee, 2600
feet above the sea, where the thermometer at sunrise stood at 55 and
56 degrees respectively; but the day between, when I was at Kombang,
it was 67 degrees at sunrise, the additional elevation raising the
thermometer. I noticed the phenomenon over and over again in Manipur,
and in the cold weather generally found the sunrise temperature lower
in the valley than in the hills. Upland valleys were sometimes colder
than that of Manipur, and now and then to the north I found very great
cold prevailing on high land, as at Mythephum. The day temperature
in the hills was invariably lower than that in the valley, in short,
it was more equable. The road to Kombang was pretty, but the place not
particularly so. The night I was there I heard the loud crackling of
a burning oak forest set on fire to clear the ground for one crop. It
is difficult to speak with patience of this abominable system, which
is gradually clearing the hills in Eastern India, and destroying
valuable timber, while it encourages nomadic habits in the tribes.
Whenever I went on an expedition into the hills, besides the usual
Manipuri Guard in attendance, four or five officers or non-commissioned
officers were told off to accompany me. Jemadars Thamur Singh, Sowpa,
Sundha, Thut-tôt, and Thûrûng were those generally sent, excellent
men who never left me from morning till night, on the hardest
march. Many was the adventure we had together, and any one of them
could march fifty miles on end. They were well known throughout the
hill territory of Manipur. A bugler always formed one of my party,
and it was his duty to sound a lively quick march as we approached
our camp in the evening. Of course, he always got a special reward
from me on my return to headquarters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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