My experiments with volcanoesJaggar, Thomas Augustus
Science
My experiments with volcanoes
Jaggar, Thomas Augustus
Geologists -- Biography; Volcanoes
We were allowed to take a steamer to St. Vincent and Barbados, stopping
at Dominica. There the Governor kindly entertained us for a few hours,
sending the government launch and driving us up the valley on a fête
day when the negro women were all in picturesque costume. We saw
his summer place with lovely gardens. We had tea with his wife, and
I discussed with him the earthquake problem. On the drive we saw a
remarkable cliff of hexagonal columns, some of them curved like a fan,
representing the old lavas of Dominica.
The administrative problems of the British islands involved not only
hurricanes and earthquakes, but tactful handling of the dominant negro,
Carib Indian, and mulatto population, which is very ticklish, for there
have been riots and labor troubles. I was astonished in several of
the islands to learn that distinguished Englishmen in government and
planter classes were partly colored. In the society club of Montserrat
we met a leading lawyer who was coal black, and we saw London-educated
negroes dancing with English girls. We found the same customs in St.
Vincent, and to a much lesser extent, in Barbados.
In St. Vincent Mr. Abbot, MacDonald’s secretary, took us to see my
old friend T. M. MacDonald the planter, at Chateau Belair on the west
side of Soufrière, where Hovey, Curtis, and I had climbed in 1902. We
traveled up the west coast by automobile, and saw one of the primitive
sugar mills, where the juice is boiled down to a syrup to be shipped
to lumber mills in Canada. Nothing could be in greater contrast to
the modern sugar factories in Hawaii, and the negro labor gives the
industry an entirely different aspect. To get to Chateau Belair we had
to motor up a canyon far into the interior, around hairpin turns over
vertical cliffs and along a narrow ridge, and then return to shore
on the other side of the valley. We rode along the beach under the
volcano, and saw the rehabilitated Richmond plantation, with the west
flank of Soufrière Volcano under heavy clouds. Owing to torrents of
rain, we had to make part of the return to Kingstown in a rowboat.
Later we drove over an excellent road up the east shore to Georgetown,
and beyond that on the foot of the volcano slope, where a group of
plantations had been purchased after the eruption of 1902 by Mr.
Barnard, who with his charming wife, entertained us. Hundreds of acres
of coconut trees, arrowroot, and sugar cane had replaced the utter
devastation of 1902. Barnard showed us a modern still for making rum
from sugar cane, and I was astonished to see that the product is just
as clear as alcohol, the rum color being artificial. We rode horseback
most of the way to the crater of Soufrière, over a trail through
forests and across streams, very different from hiking in horrible
desolation and fog up bare ridges covered with volcanic bombs, such as
Hovey and Curtis and I had encountered on this same slope at the time
of the eruptions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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