On leaving Berlin we resolved to go as far as our allowance would
permit, into the Tyrol if possible, and we thought that our mileage
could be prodigiously increased if we drank water with our meals, and
"looked the other way" when more than five pfennigs was wanted as
_Trinkgeld_. The Norwegian never once swerved in living up to this
programme, but I fell from grace at times. The looks and "faces" that we
got from guides, palace lackeys and waiters were specimens that, could
we have drawn them, would make a very interesting gallery to look over
to-day. But, alas! neither one of us could sketch, all that we have now
is the remembrance. During the six weeks or more that we traveled we saw
disappointment, distrust, hatred and pugnaciousness in all the
different shades and colorings which the German countenance is equal to.
The Norwegian said that he enjoyed such sights, but there were moments
when I begged off, and tipped as I saw fit. It made no difference to the
Norwegian, however, whether the service rendered was a two-hour
chaperoning through a great castle, or a mere response to a question.
Five pfennigs remained his limit in the tipping line to the end, and I
doubt whether his entire bill on this score came to over three marks.
His non-alcoholic régime nearly got us into serious trouble in Nürnberg.
As had been our custom in other towns, we had selected a modest
restaurant at the noon hour, and called for the regular meal. Although
we did not order beer, it was served to us, but left untouched. When we
came to pay our reckoning we called the waiter's attention to the beer
item, saying that we would not pay it as the beer had not been asked
for. Such a hubbub and pow-wowing as then began I have never seen over
two glasses of beer. The proprietor came, the other waiters also, and
even some of the guests labored with us in the matter.
"But it is the custom, _Meine Herren_," the landlord kept saying, to all
of which the Norwegian returned a determined "No." It might or might not
be the custom, and whether it was or not, did not make a particle of
difference; he was not going to pay for something that he had neither
wanted nor asked for.
The upshot of the arguing was that we picked up our grips and started to
leave. The burly proprietor snatched my bag away from me in the hallway.
The Norwegian sprang at him with an oath--the first and last I ever
heard him use.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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