In those days, the late eighties and early nineties, the American
colony, as it was called, lived mainly in the western part of the city,
in the neighborhood of the Zoological Gardens. The doctor, or professor,
as he is now called, was for years the colony's physician, and many were
the regrets when he gave up visiting us. We were still privileged to
call at his office, but _hospital_ work and Imperial patients made it
impossible for him to call on us, although he kindly made neighborly
visits in my mother's home as long as he remained in our street. He is
now getting old and gray, but I found him as friendly and hospitable on
my last visit to Berlin, in spite of his fine villa, lackeys and
carriages, as when he examined me for broken bones and twisted muscles
after the coal-passing experience. I told him that I was on my way to
Russia to study the heavily-advertised revolution. His face became
grave, as of old when studying a case. "Be careful, my son," he
cautioned me; "be very careful in Poland." The fatherly warning and the
friendly interest brought back to my mind memories of the Berlin that I
had known and in a way loved, the town that took me in and truly gave me
another chance.
Nearly all American colonies abroad are but little more than camps. The
campers tarry a while, for one reason or another--culture is what most
of them claim to be seeking--and then fold their tents and pass on,
those who remain behind having to get acquainted afresh with the new set
of "culturists" who are sure to arrive in due time. In Venice there is
an Anglo-Saxon camp which lays claim to ancient privileges and rights.
In 1894-95 I spent four unforgettable months in the place, and got well
acquainted with many of the campers.
"And how long have you been here?" was one of my questions on meeting an
Englishman or fellow countryman, already beginning to plume myself on my
long residence.
"Eighteen years, thank you!" was the answer I got on numerous occasions.
My four months' sojourn dwindled to a very slight significance when set
over against the old residents' record, but in spite of their long stay
in the city they were, after all, campers. When the Christmas holiday
time came, for instance, they all spoke of going "home" to England.
Venice was not their home. It was simply a desirable abiding place for
the time being.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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