My Life in Many States and in Foreign Lands, Dictated in My Seventy-Fourth YearTrain, George Francis
History
My Life in Many States and in Foreign Lands, Dictated in My Seventy-Fourth Year
Train, George Francis
Train, George Francis, 1829-1904
This trip I very willingly made, as I wanted to see everything of China
that was possible; but it was more adventurous than I had expected. As
we were sailing down the China coast, a typhoon struck us, and over
went sails and masts. Our pilot from Shanghai was immediately in
difficulties, as the pilot from Fu-chow, whom we had just picked up, did
not understand the pilot we had brought from Shanghai. I had the utmost
difficulty, owing to my inadequate mastery of pidgin-English, in
establishing communication between these essential elements of our
little crew. We had, finally, to get into a boat and make our way up the
River Min for forty miles in the dark. It was a very trying experience,
as the river was absolutely unknown to me; the darkness was
"unpierceable by power of any star," and the river was treacherous in
itself for small boats. To make matters worse, it was infested by junk
pirates. This latter danger I had got somewhat accustomed to, as almost
every inch of Chinese water was, in those days, the field of operations
for these pirates. The other nations of the world had not yet adopted
effective means for getting rid of them as the United States got rid of
the Algerian and Tripolitan plunderers.
We arrived at Fu-chow, after a harassing night on the river. Almost the
first thing to greet my curious eyes, as they were sweeping the horizon
for wonders in that land of wonders, was the old suspension bridge,
which the Chinese assert was built in the fourteenth century. It proved
to be as much of a curiosity as the Chinese wall in the north. At
Fu-chow I was a guest in the house of the Russells. Immediately upon
landing, Gray, Heard, and myself took sedan chairs for a tour through
the city.
On this occasion I had my first opportunity to appeal to the American
flag for protection. As we were passing through a very narrow, but
important street, our coolies were suddenly set upon and overturned. We
scrambled out of the chairs, and asked what was the matter. We learned
that the viceroy was also passing through the thoroughfare, and that
everything and everybody had to give way for his retinue. My companions
at once stepped out of the way, but my blood was up. I resented being
upset in the street, like so much refuse, in order to have the filthy
thoroughfare cleared for the passage of a mere Chinese viceroy.
I had a small American flag in my pocket, carefully wrapped about its
little staff, and I took it out with a great deal of display and waved
the tiny emblem around my head. I dared the Chinese servants of the
viceroy to touch me or to interfere with my right to pass through the
streets of Fu-chow. This had its effect. I noticed at once that the
Chinese in the street, who recognized the colors of the United States,
fell back from me, our coolies got up out of the dirt, and once more
took hold of the poles of the chairs. The viceroy passed on, pretending
not to have noticed the incident, and in a few minutes the way was clear
again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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