Brooke, Margaret, Lady, 1849-1936; Queens -- Malaysia -- Sarawak -- Biography; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- Description and travel
When we arrived at Lundu, our friend Mr. Bloomfield Douglas, Resident
of the place and living in the comfortable Government bungalow situated
a few yards from the river, came to meet us at the wharf, accompanied
by a number of Dyaks. A Dyak chief styled the Orang Kaya Stia Rajah,
with his wife and relations, came on board with Mr. Douglas to take us
on shore. Both men and women wore the conical hats of the country, made
of the finest straw. A piece of light wood delicately carved to a point
ornamented their tops, which were made splendid with bright colours.
My old friends, the Dyak women, were affectionate and kind. They took
hold of my hand, sniffed at it, and laid it gently back by my side;
some of the Dyak men followed suit. These people never kiss in European
fashion, but smell at the object of their affection or reverence. I
always felt on such occasions as though two little holes were placed on
the back of my hand.
On the day of our arrival, the sun was blazing overhead and it was
fearfully hot. Our shadows were very short as we moved along, and the
people lined the way right up to the Resident’s door. We had to touch
everybody individually as we marched along, even babies in arms had
their little hands held out to touch our fingers. These greetings took
some time in the overpowering heat of midday, and it was a great relief
when at last we reached Mr. Douglas’s pretty room, which he had been
wise enough to leave unpainted and unpapered. The walls were made of
the brown wood of the country, and were decorated with hanging baskets
of orchids in full flower, vandalowis, philaenopsis, etc.--a mass of
brown, yellow, pink, white, and mauve blooms, hanging in fragile and
delicate cascades of colour against the dark background. Rare and
wonderful pots of ferns were placed in my bedroom, and quantities of
roses, gardenias, jasmine, and chimpakas scented the whole place.
In the evening we took a walk round the settlement. The many
plantations of Liberian coffee trees looked beautiful weighed down with
green and scarlet berries, some branches still retaining their snowy
blossoms. The contrast of berries and flowers, with the glossy dark
green of the leaves, made them a charming picture in the landscape.
We went through fields planted with tapioca and sugar-cane, and
across plantations of pepper vines. These latter are graceful things,
trained up poles, with small green bunches hanging down like miniature
clusters of green and red grapes. In every corner or twist of the road
we met little groups of men and women waiting for us. They stood in
the ditches by the side of the paths until we came up to them, when
they jumped out, rushed at us, sniffed at the backs of our hands, and
retired once more to the ditches without saying a word.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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