Brooke, Margaret, Lady, 1849-1936; Queens -- Malaysia -- Sarawak -- Biography; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- Description and travel
de Crespigny suggested I should ask the
chief if I might make the acquaintance of his wife and the other women
of the tribe. I turned to the chief and asked the question in Malay,
which our interpreter translated into Kayan. The Sultan’s emissaries
did not look pleasant, but the chief seemed pleased, and made a sign
to one of the men standing near him, who at once disappeared behind
the curtains. In a few moments the man came back and held the curtains
aside, when, through the opening, came a procession of women. It was
a pretty sight. The chief’s wife, a remarkable lady, much feared and
respected by her tribe, headed the procession. Her black hair flowed
over her shoulders, falling almost to her knees, and on her head she
wore a fillet of straw. Her garment of white cotton hung in folds from
the waist to her right ankle, leaving her left side bare, excepting at
the hips, where it was fastened with strings of beads. Her left arm
and leg were bare but tattooed, and looked as though they were encased
in sheaths of dark blue velvet. All the women following her, young and
old, wore the same costume. They might have been Greek priestesses
paying tribute to some god. They shook hands first with the Rajah,
then with me, and seated themselves in a group at my feet. The usual
conversation followed as to the number of their children, how their
farms were progressing, etc., and I then asked to see some of the mats
and cloths they had made. After these had been duly admired, we became
quite friendly. My sleeves were pushed up to see whether my arms were
white all the way up. From the ejaculations which followed, I cannot be
certain whether they were those of admiration or not!
I had round my neck a gold chain from which was suspended a red coral
charm, much in vogue amongst Neapolitans to ward against the evil eye.
Mr. de Crespigny suggested I should give this to the chief’s wife,
and I at once took the chain of gold off my neck and put it round
hers. I remember how the little narrow gold chain looked as it lay
against her mass of black hair, and the blood-red coral charm appeared
extraordinarily strange, yet picturesque, as it hung amongst the folds
of her white cotton garment. She was delighted with the ornament, and
when we parted the Rajah and the people had become good friends. I
said good-bye to the chief’s wife, and experienced a strange pang of
regret, as I always did when parting, perhaps after a few minutes’
conversation only, from a newly made friend, a member of a tribe whom I
might never see again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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