Then I turned to the cemetery. The little pathways were muddy beneath the
leafless trees. Bead crosses and wreaths and a few stunted chrysanthemums
decorated the wet graves. All seasons are the same to the dead. I stood
by a breach in the wall near the grave of “_Charles Carron, musicien,
souvenir d’un camarade, 31 août, 1914_,” looking out toward the forest of
Vitrimont. Its autumn garb was soft, discreet, and lovely; more jasper
and amethyst and Chrysoprase and cornelian fields rolled gently in
between it and me. There was the band of yellow like a Greek border to a
garment in the western sky—only that and nothing more, yet some beauty
and sadness chained me to the spot. Quail and woodcock, gray pheasant
and larks, were flying about, and some strongly marked black-and-white
magpies were pecking at something in the nearest field. I asked myself
again, “What is it that stamps Lorraine with such beauty?” General de
Buyer told me that when Pierre Loti came to Vitrimont he said, “_C’est
trop vert_,” and perhaps, after Stamboul and Egypt and the Grecian Isles,
it would seem too green. But I saw, returning there in autumn, that the
soul of Lorraine, _l’élégante et douleureuse_, is like unto tarnished
silver, with its grays, yellows, browns, and purples; that soul that has
suffered, hoped through the generations, whose abiding-places have been
devastated and rebuilt through the centuries. And I knew that one must
see it in autumn, beneath the wasteful splendors of gray clouds, with
their hints of color, red, brown, yellow, and purple, or with sky and
rain melting into one, curtaining the brown, mysterious earth—and, in
between, the beat of the human heart.
It all seemed to show itself through some dissolving light of ages.
Those secular beeches, that I had first seen in their tenderest green,
had become a brilliant yellow, and were turned to the south. The great
bronze oaks looked to the north, obeying laws as inviolable as those
of the human beings passing beneath them. In all these forests round
about Vitrimont, Parroy, and Mondon the legendary lords of the country
hunted; the roads of Gaul disappeared under the great Roman highways
which traversed Lorraine from Langres to Trèves, from Toul to Metz, and
again from Langres to Strasburg. The name Lunéville emerges out of the
night of the tenth century in the person of Étienne, Bishop of Toul,
successor of St.-Gérard, and Folmar I, Count of Lunéville, was married to
Sparhilde, descended from Charlemagne. (To this day I notice that almost
any one who respects himself in these parts talks quite casually of being
descended from Charlemagne, or Charles the Bald, or René the Victorious,
as a Boston man might of the Pilgrim Fathers.) Folmar’s hunting-lodge
was by the muddy Vesouze, over which one passes to get from Lunéville to
Vitrimont. In time it was transformed into a château, and around it grew
a village, which in turn became a fortified town, then the capital of
Léopold and Stanislas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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