"If you wish to hear about the country along the banks of
the Nile and to form an exact and correct idea of it, you
should follow the topographical winding of that river.
"Two leagues below Cairo, it divides into two branches: one
flows out at Rosetta, the other at Damietta; the Delta lies
between these two tributaries, an extraordinarily fertile
tract of land watered by the Nile. At the land end of these
two branches is a border of cultivated country sometimes
over a league in width, and sometimes less. When you have
traversed this, you enter the desert, on the one side
stretching away into Lybia, and on the other leading to the
plains adjoining the Red Sea. The country round Rosetta and
Cairo is densely populated; and quantities of rice, maize,
and lentils are cultivated.
"The villages are one and all detestable; they are made of
mud worked up by the feet and heaped up with holes scooped
out from above.
"To give yourself a better idea, call to mind the snow-heaps
children make at home. Their ovens are an exact reproduction
of the ancient ones used in the Egyptian palaces. The
cultivators, commonly called _Fellahs,_ are extremely
industrious; they live on very little, and in a state of
indescribable filthiness. I have seen them drink the dregs
left by my camels and horses in the water-troughs.
"And this is the Egypt so cried up by historians and
travellers!
"Nevertheless, in spite of all these abominations and evils,
I will admit that the country is quite capable of becoming
to France a colony of almost incalculable value; but it
will need time, and men. I can see that soldiers are not
a suitable class of men to found colonies, and certainly
not our soldiers. Ours are terrible in battle, terrible
perhaps after a victory, unquestionably the bravest fighters
in the world; but they are very little good for distant
expeditions, for they are easily discouraged; idle and
inconsequent, they are sufficient unto themselves. They have
even been heard to say as their generals were passing: 'Look
at those killers of French folk!'
"The cup is empty, I have drained it to the dregs: only
my resolutions of perseverance are left me, my health, a
courage which I trust will never desert me; and, with these,
I will struggle to the last.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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