Conductors (Music) -- United States -- Biography; Damrosch, Walter, 1862-1950
The next morning I continued the trip by motor to Genoa. As there had
been no strike of any kind in Monte Carlo I thought that our hoodoo had
lifted, but, lo and behold, at Genoa we found only one old, gray-bearded
portier at our hotel to greet us. All the waiters, porters,
chambermaids, cooks, scullions, in fact everything that could strike in
connection with a hotel, were on strike and the discomfort was
considerable. We had looked forward with pleasurable anticipation to our
first Italian dinner. We had dreamed of fritto misto, spaghetti, and of
delicious Italian ices, but these dreams quickly vanished. There was not
even a crust of bread to be obtained at the hotel. Finally we were
furtively conducted through an alley into the back entrance of a little
restaurant by way of the kitchen, and there we obtained some food, but
of the simplest and poorest variety. The next morning a cup of wretched
coffee and a piece of stale bread at the railroad station made our
breakfast, but luckily for us a kind young American, Mr. Allan, called
on us and whisked us off in his car to his house, where a delicious
luncheon made us forget our deprivations of the night before.
I was again amazed at the cleverness with which the members of our
orchestra adapted themselves to European travelling conditions. They had
all found excellent restaurants and had really fared much better than
we.
We gave our concert at the _Teatro Carlo Felice_, and our first Italian
audience proved to be even more noisy in their demonstrations of
pleasure than the _Midi_. I was very much touched to receive a large
wreath tied with the stars and stripes, from the American
Consul-General, who told me after the concert that he considered such a
cultural mission as we were engaged in of as much importance for cordial
relations between our country and Italy as any business enterprise. He
said that music meant so much to the Italian that he was amazed and
delighted to find that Americans did not only interest themselves in
business but also cultivated the arts. As the Italians had been so
bitterly disillusioned regarding President Wilson, after the
phenomenally enthusiastic acclaim which they had given him on his visit
to Rome only a year before, I was not surprised to have one old
gentleman say to me after the concert: “We do not like your President,
but we love the Americans.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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