My three years in Manipur : $b and escape from the recent mutinyGrimwood, Ethel St. Clair
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My three years in Manipur : $b and escape from the recent mutiny
Grimwood, Ethel St. Clair
Grimwood, Ethel St. Clair, 1867-1928; Manipur (India)
From Kohima we went to Tummu, in Burmah, returning first to the Residency
for a few days. This was my first visit to Burmah. My husband had gone
down the year before, but I had been too ill to accompany him, and had
stayed behind. We had lovely weather, and enjoyed the journey there
immensely. The scenery on the way is lovely, and as the forests are not
so dense as those on the Cachar road, one can get magnificent views
of the surrounding country every now and then. Range after range of
mountains rise gloriously around you, as you wend your way among the
leafy glades and shimmering forests which clothe their rugged sides. Cool
and green near you, growing purple as you leave them behind, and becoming
faintly blue as they outline themselves on the far horizon, these
mountains fill you with admiration. Forests of teak rise on each side of
you as you get nearer Tummu, and the heat becomes much greater.
After five days we arrived at our camp, which was situated on the
boundary between Manipur and Burmah, at a place called Mori Thana. Here
we stayed, living in a pagoda, in company with several figures of Buddha
and many other minor deities, indicating that the building was sacred.
The Burmese are very fond of flowers, and they always place vases of
gaily-coloured blossoms in front of their gods, and small punkahs to
keep them cool. The pagoda we were lodged in was built, like all Burmese
houses, on piles, about three feet from the ground. The climate is so
damp that they are obliged to be raised, or the floor of the house would
very soon become rotten. Everything at Tummu was quite different to
Manipur: the women dressed in much gayer colours, and did their hair more
picturesquely in large knobs on the top of their heads, into which they
stuck tiny fans, or flowers, or brightly-coloured beads. All the women
smoke, even the young ones, and one seldom sees them without a cigar in
their mouths. These cigars are made of very mild tobacco, grown in their
own gardens, and dried by themselves. They roll a quantity up tight in
the dried leaf of the Indian corn-plant, and tie the ends round with fine
silk. They are longer and fatter than those smoked in England, and the
Burmese girls at Tummu did not approve at all of some from Belat which
my husband gave them, as they were too strong for them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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