It was dark when we returned to the little village on the plateau where we had left our car. The place seemed uninhabited with all the blinds closed. But through one uncovered window I saw a room full of chatting soldiers. We went to pay our respects to the colonel in command, and found him and his staff around a table covered with oilcloth in the main living-room of a villager’s house. He spoke of his men, of their loyalty and cheerfulness, as the other commanders had, as if this were his only boast. These French officers have little “side”; none of that toe-the-mark, strutting militarism which some soldiers think necessary to efficiency. They live very simply on campaign, though if they do get to town for a few hours they enjoy a good meal. If they did not, madame at the restaurant would feel that she was not doing her duty to France. XIII SMILES AMONG RUINS Elation in the cause--From Nancy southward--A giant Frenchman-- Personnel of the French machine--_Déjeuner_--Father Joffre’s boarding establishment--A thrifty army--Responsibility in a democracy--Determination for final peace--“Rural free delivery” at the front--A card-indexed army--Their families-- Battlefields that saved Paris--Souvenirs aplenty--Ruthless “military advantage”--A shattered farmhouse--Helping the farmers--Construction of trenches--In the front line trench--Watchful waiting--The Lorraine country--Widespread destruction--Another “Louvain”--A brave and great Sister-- Thrilling attacks--“It was for France!”--His Honour, the Mayor--The tricolour in Lorraine. Scorched piles of brick and mortar where a home has been ought to make about the same impression anywhere. When you have gone from Belgium to French Lorraine, however, you will know quite the contrary. In Belgium I suffered all the depression which a nightmare of war’s misery can bring; in French Lorraine I found myself sharing something of the elation of a man who looks at a bruised knuckle with the consciousness that it broke a burglar’s jaw. A Belgian repairing the wreck of his house was a grim, heartbreaking picture; a Frenchman of Lorraine repairing the wreck of his house had the light of hard-won victory, of confidence, of sacrifice made to a great purpose, of freedom secure for future generations, in his eyes. The difference was this: The Germans were still in Belgium; they were out of French Lorraine for good. “What matters a shell-hole through my walls and my torn roof!” said a Lorraine farmer. “Work will make my house whole. But nothing could ever have made my heart and soul whole while the Germans remained. I saw them go, monsieur; they left us ruins, but France is ours!”