Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
cliff of "Punta di Scutola" appears, dropping from a vast height
almost sheer into the sea, while on a nearer and a lower cliff rests
the white town of Vico, flashing in the sun.
Among the pleasures of the road it is not the least that the traveller
coming from Castellammare, as long as this most lovely scene extends
before his eyes, is compelled to saunter. No man may hurry, for the
road winds continually upwards, and one pauses, now to look down upon
a little beach, where the blue tide washes in over white gravel, now
to notice how the slopes are cut in terraces of vines; while in every
sheltered cleft the golden fruit of orange trees hangs in the shadow
of the brown screens put up to guard them from the sun. The vegetation
is extraordinarily rich; as well it may be, for the limestone mountain
is overlaid with volcanic tufa for full half its height--though Heaven
only knows where the tufa came from. A hundred yards beyond the beach
there is once more deep water, dark and unruffled, up to the very base
of the high cliff; and further out the sea is stained with turquoise
changing into green that recalls in some dim way the colour of a field
of flax when the blue flowers are just appearing. But this is fresher,
alive with light and sparkles, flashing with the soft radiance of the
sky, while the olive woods upon the lofty headland behind the town
change from grey to dusk as the shadows of the clouds are flung upon
them or dispersed by the returning sun.
Vico, no less than Pozzano, has its miraculous Madonna. She was found
long ago by one Catherine, a poor crippled girl, to whom the Virgin
appeared in a dream, saying, "Go, Catherine, to the Cave of Villanto,
and there, before my image, you will be healed." Now the Cave of
Villanto was occupied by cows, and seemed a most unlikely place to
contain even the least sacred statue. But Catherine did not stay to
reason; she went and found it, was healed according to the promise,
and now on the third Sunday in October the image is borne in solemn
procession from the Church of Santa Maria del Toro through the streets
of Vico, in glorious memory of this striking miracle.
There is no end to these marvels of Madonnas. At Meta, just where the
road drops into the plain of Sorrento, an old woman, attending on her
cow, was amazed to see the beast drop on its knees in front of a
laurel tree. She kicked and poked the creature, but in vain; Colley
continued her devotions with placid piety, and the natural amazement
of her mistress was increased when she saw a flame spring up at the
foot of the tree, in which flame presently appeared not only a statue
of the Madonna, but a hen and chickens of pure gold!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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