Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
This decay happened long ago. It was partly the work of pirates, who,
as I have often said, swarmed upon these coasts up to that year of
grace in which Lord Exmouth destroyed Algiers. The nest being dinged
down, the crows flew away, or rather learnt better manners. But for
many generations they hunted at their will along the coasts of Italy,
counting the people theirs, as often as they chose to come for
them--the men to slay, the women and children to be carried off.
The corsairs in all generations had a rendezvous at Capri, which
served them much the same useful purpose as Lundy, at the entrance of
the Bristol Channel, did to others of their breed. It was a turnpike
placed across the track of shipping, and heavy tolls were taken there
from the luckless sailors. Barbarossa has stamped his memory on the
island more permanently than any other rover. Dragut was, perhaps, as
terrible in life, and Occhialy can have met few men who did not fear
him. But tradition makes less of them than of the red-bearded
scoundrel who assumed the cognomen of an emperor. Barbarossa was
indeed often at Capri. His armaments were colossal. One gasps in
reading of a pirate who descended on Capri with a fleet of 150 sail!
Yet such were the numbers with which Barbarossa arrived about St.
Johns Day in the year 1543. Happily we do not know the exact details
of the woe he wrought upon the midsummer seas; but on this lofty road
it is well to recollect him, for it was up the now fragmentary stair
to Anacapri that his warriors swarmed, perhaps on this, perhaps on
some other visit, and stormed the ancient castle overhead.
It is worth while to climb up this last flight of the old broken
stair. One has free access to it from the modern road, and turning
away from the sea-wall, over which one can distinguish the boats far
down below on their way to the Blue Grotto, looking as small as
beetles from this vast height, one may climb cautiously up the
shattered steps, gaining continually wider outlooks until at last a
level platform is attained, where the path winds round the face of the
precipice. Sweet-scented shrubs and flowering plants are rooted in the
crannies of the limestone, and next the path leads under an old
gatehouse, spanning the whole width of the ground between precipice
above and abyss below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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