Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
I do not propose to discuss the rival merits of Carmelina and
Carolina. No chart avails the mariner in danger of wreck upon the
reefs of woman's beauty. Nothing will help him but a good stout
anchor, and that I cannot give him, nor even indicate where he should
cast it out. But if a man pass safely by these perils he will ere long
attain the summit of the rock, whence he will find much the same view
exposed before him as he saw from Anacapri, and thus may give his
attention the more freely to the ruins of the "Villa di Tiberio."
None but an archæologist can derive much pleasure from these ruins.
Eighteen hundred winters and the delvings of many investigators,
whether pirates or men of science, have so shattered the buildings
that a trained intelligence is required to comprehend their
arrangement. Other eyes can see nothing but broken walls, grass-grown
corridors, and vaulted basement chambers, which suggest but little
splendour. Yet here, on the summit of the headland, stood beyond any
doubt the largest and most magnificent of the palaces in which
Tiberius secluded himself during the long years he spent in Capri; and
with this spot most of the stories told by the guides are associated.
These tales are grim and terrible. Tiberius, in the days he spent in
Capri, was a tyrant and a debauchee. His palaces, which are now washed
and blown clean by the pure rain and wind, were stews of lust and
murder while he lived. It is not strange that he is well remembered in
the island. His life was wicked enough to beget tradition--the surest
way of earning long remembrance! When he saw Capri first it was
occupied by a simple, laughing people, gracious and friendly as they
are to-day. He left it full of agony and tears. No wonder that after
eighteen centuries he is not yet forgotten!
Tiberius came first with the Emperor Augustus, an old man near his
end, but joyous and frank, as was his nature.
It happened that a ship from Alexandria was lying at the Marina, bound
for Pozzuoli; and the shipmen, desiring to do honour to Augustus, clad
themselves in white, put garlands on their heads, and came to give him
hail. The simple ceremony, the frank reverence of the sailors, pleased
the Emperor beyond measure. He mixed freely with them, gave his
attendants money to buy merchandise from the ship, put himself at the
head of the revels; and left behind him when he went away a kingly
memory. Perhaps the Capriotes hoped that when Tiberius came back those
good days would return. But Tiberius was made of other clay, and
brought only deepening terror to the island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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