Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
There was sin in that look, though not perhaps by the standard of
those days. It was an Anjou princess who won immortality in the Church
of San Lorenzo on that Holy Thursday when she was dreaming of nothing
but a lover--perhaps not even of so much as that. She was the Princess
Maria, natural daughter of King Robert the Wise, he whose tomb we saw
in the Church of Santa Chiara. She had a husband; but no one asks or
remembers his name. It is with Boccaccio that her memory is linked for
evermore. She was certainly of rare beauty. Her lover, than whom no
man ever wrote more delicately, tries to fix it for all time. "Hair so
blonde that the world holds nothing like it shadows a white forehead
of noble width, beneath which are the curves of two black and most
slender eyebrows ... and under these two wandering and roguish eyes
... cheeks of no other colour than milk." Item two lips, indifferent
red! Why, what a shiver it gives one to realise that not Boccaccio
himself can convey to us any real picture of his love! Even the magic
of his style, informed by all the passion of his burning heart, can
give us nothing better than a catalogue of charms such as any village
lover of to-day might write! The dead are dead; and no wizard can set
them before us as they lived.
Yet granting that, it is still the spirits of these lovers which haunt
the Church of San Lorenzo, filling the large old temple with a throb
of human passion to this hour. I saunter round endeavouring to fix my
mind on the details of the architecture, which are worth more notice
than they commonly receive from all save students. But it is useless.
Every time I raise my eyes I seem to see the subtle radiance of
sympathy flash across the church from the eyes of the princess,
stirring strange, uneasy feelings, born of young hot blood, and the
sensuous essence of the chanting heard in the restless days of spring.
The architecture may wait the coming of some cooler head. I stroll out
into the courtyard, full of memories of kings and poets and of Anjou
Courts, when the world was splendid, and life was full of colour, and
the city not more unhappy than it is to-day.
Among the letters of Petrarch is one written from the monastery
attached to this church. The poet lodged there during a visit to
Naples in 1342, after the death of King Robert, and gives a vivid
description of a great hurricane which struck the city on the 25th of
November in that year.
The storm had been predicted by a preacher, whose denunciation struck
such terror into the Neapolitans, easily stirred to religious
apprehensions, that ere dark a troop of women stripped half naked and
clasping their children to their breasts were rushing through the
streets from church to church, flinging themselves prostrate before
the altars, bathing the sacred images with tears, and crying aloud to
the Saviour to have mercy on mankind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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