Naples, Past and PresentNorway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
History
Naples, Past and Present
Norway, Arthur H. (Arthur Hamilton)
Naples (Italy) -- Description and travel
If we may trust the story told by Wading, a great historical authority
upon the deeds of the Franciscan Order, to which the monks of San
Lorenzo belonged, this same prior David, whose aspect Petrarch found
so comforting, was the instrument of a notable miracle on this
occasion, having kept the impious sea out of at least some part of
the city by boldly thrusting the relics of the saints in its track.
Petrarch does not mention this, and indeed if Prior David could do so
much he is to blame for not having done more, since he might as easily
have prevented all the damage done while he was chanting in his
church.
As for Petrarch, the storm impressed him so deeply that he told
Cardinal Colonna he had resolved never to go afloat again, even at the
Pope's bidding. "I will leave the air to birds, and the sea to
fishes," he observed very sagely; "I know that learned men say there
is no more danger on sea than on land, but I prefer to render up my
life where I received it. That is a good saying of the ancient writer,
'He who suffers shipwreck a second time has no right to blame
Neptune.'"
Are we not growing a little tired of churches? There are so many in
this city, and in the next chapter I shall have to dwell long upon the
Carmine, or rather on its manifold associations. Well, no great harm
will be done if we pass by a good many of these temples; but one must
not be left unmentioned, namely the cathedral, which we have almost
reached. A few yards from San Lorenzo, the Strada del Duomo cuts
across the old Decumanus Major at right angles, and if we descend it a
little way towards the sea we have before us the fine front of the
cathedral.
It will be expected of me here that in lieu of copying from Gsell-Fels
all the interesting facts about the date of the building, describing
the ancient fane of Santa Restituta which has already witnessed
fourteen centuries, or detailing the arrangement of the chapels where
so much of the noblest ever born in Naples lies mouldering into
dust,--it is expected of me, I suppose, that I shall repeat once more
the oft-told tale of the liquefaction of the blood of San Gennaro,
that miracle and portent which brings luck to the city if it happens
speedily, and is a presage of woe when it is delayed. We have heard
the story all our lives. But no book on Naples is complete without it,
and I will therefore take the description by Fucini, which has at any
rate the advantage of being little known in England, to which I may
add that it is the work of one who might very truly say what he did
not know of Naples, at least in his own day, was not knowledge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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