Narrative and Miscellaneous PapersDe Quincey, Thomas
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Narrative and Miscellaneous Papers
De Quincey, Thomas
English essays; English fiction
by burning down the family mansion, and thus roasting the pig-stye.
Rudest of barbarous devices is English cookery, and not much in advance
of this primitive Chinese step; a fact which it would not be worth while
to lament, were it not for the sake of the poor trembling deserter from
the banners of intoxication, who is thus, and by no other cause, so
often thrown back beneath the yoke which he had abjured. Past counting
are the victims of alcohol, that, having by vast efforts emancipated
themselves for a season, are violently forced into relapsing by the
nervous irritations of demoniac cookery. Unhappily for _them_, the
horrors of indigestion are relieved for the moment, however ultimately
strengthened, by strong liquors; the relief is immediate, and cannot
fail to be perceived; but the aggravation, being removed to a distance,
is not always referred to its proper cause. This is the capital rock and
stumbling-block in the path of him who is hurrying back to the camps of
temperance; and many a reader is likely to misapprehend the case through
the habit he has acquired of supposing indigestion to lurk chiefly
amongst _luxurious_ dishes. But, on the contrary, it is amongst the
plainest, simplest, and commonest dishes that such misery lurks, in
England. Let us glance at three articles of diet, beyond all comparison
of most ordinary occurrence, viz., potatoes, bread, and butcher's meat.
The art of preparing potatoes for _human_ use is utterly unknown, except
in certain provinces of our empire, and amongst certain sections of the
laboring class. In our great cities,--London, Edinburgh, &c.--the sort
of things which you see offered at table under the name and reputation
of potatoes, are such that, if you could suppose the company to be
composed of Centaurs and Lapithæ, or any other quarrelsome people, it
would become necessary for the police to interfere. The potato of cities
is a very dangerous missile; and, if thrown with an accurate aim by an
angry hand, will fracture any known skull. In volume and consistency, it
is very like a paving-stone; only that, I should say, the paving-stone
had the advantage in point of tenderness. And upon this horrid basis,
which youthful ostriches would repent of swallowing, the trembling,
palpitating invalid, fresh from the scourging of alcohol, is requested
to build the superstructure of his dinner. The proverb says, that three
flittings are as bad as a fire; and on that model I conceive that three
potatoes, as they are found at many British dinner-tables, would be
equal, in principle of ruin, to two glasses of vitriol. The same savage
ignorance appears, and only not so often, in the bread of this island.
Myriads of families eat it in that early stage of sponge which bread
assumes during the process of baking; but less than sixty hours will not
fit this dangerous article of human diet to be eaten. And those who are
acquainted with the works of Parmentier, or other learned investigators
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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