Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
All these demands I firmly resisted as long as I could; but at length,
when a compromise seemed necessary, we arranged for a hundred reals more
in goods. A part we have given here, and the rest we have promised on
our arrival at Aheer. Nothing is now said of Zinder, although the first
arrangement was from Aheer to Zinder. Such are the people we have to
deal with in Africa. But could we not find similar extortion amongst the
innkeepers and the conductors of carriages on the highways of Europe?
That all the people are _soua soua_--"higgledy-piggledy" is our only
equivalent phrase--is bad news for a Saharan traveller; for it signifies
nothing less than that there is no paramount authority in a country, and
that the traveller is exposed to the insolence of every evil-disposed
person. Such is represented to be the condition of Tidek, the first
province of Aheer upon which we shall enter.
The scarcity of food in Aheer--one of the causes of the disturbances
that are taking place--arises, we are told, from the quantity of
provisions carried away from the country when the Kailouees made their
expedition against the Walad Suleiman. But this expedition is now
finished, and there has been time for a revival of prosperity. Sickness
and disease are reported in Aheer at the present time. These are
unpleasant tidings for a traveller who is braving the fatigues and
perils of the Great Sahara, in hopes of some little repose at his
journey's end.
To express great numbers, the Arabs and Tuaricks always use the
similitudes, "like the dust," or "like flies." When the Tuaricks say we
are to give nothing to anybody--speaking, of course, of other people, as
Hateetah to me--they take up a little sand between the ends of their
fingers and scatter it on the palms of their hands. When they wish to
describe roads free from hills and ravines they extend the palm of their
hands, adding, "Like this." I cannot say that I admire the Kailouees in
any respect. Barth's comparison to snakes is tolerably correct. They
have duped us in various ways, and our only consolation is being able to
report their conduct to their friends in Ghât and Zinder.
These observations occur to me during our prolonged halt at the well of
Falezlez. The whole caravan needs this refreshment, both on account of
the fatigues it has already encountered, as of those to which it may
look forward on the tract of desert which now stretches wild and
inhospitable before us. Yesterday the sky was completely overcast; but
during the night and this morning the clouds have been succeeded by
wind, and strong blasts have completely cooled us. I do not think that
the climate would affect me so much as it does if I had something good
to eat; but the Tanelkums have got with them all my soups. The Germans
eat hausa like Tuaricks, and do very well. I expected to find the water
of Falezlez most unpalatable. This, indeed, is its reputation; but we
were all agreeably deceived, and the salt taste was scarcely
perceptible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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