Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
_11th._--There is excitement in the town. What news? The new acting
Governor, my old acquaintance of Ghadamez, Rais Mustapha, is in sight,
hull above the horizon. We all go out to meet him, and soon see his
_cortège_ breaking between the groves. This is the gayest and most
spirited scene I have witnessed since leaving Tripoli. Mustapha brings
his staff and 200 Arab cavaliers with him, to relieve the Fezzan
irregulars. They make a gallant-looking body of men as they come swiftly
on. All the authorities of the town, with whatever cavalry is already
collected here, pour out of the gates to pay their compliments; and then
come crowds of the lower classes of citizens, with their rude bagpipes,
which scream discordantly. The horsemen galloped hither and thither in
the plain whilst the interview between the great men took place, and
effectually drowned all the polite things that were said by their
trampling and hurrahing. We rode up likewise to welcome the new great
man. Mustapha looked well, was excellently mounted, and dressed almost
like an European officer. He smiled graciously on seeing his old friend
of Ghadamez, and shook me by the hand; he also recognised the Germans,
having seen them at Zaweeah, near Tripoli. Satisfied with this little
interview, we drew aside, and the procession moved towards the gate.
There was instantly a rush of the Arab horsemen, every one trying to get
in front; and as the entry was narrow an obstruction soon took place. We
drew aside, and called out to those who were pressing on to make way for
the Governor. One fellow would not hear; and Mustapha himself riding up,
lashed him with a small whip across the shoulders. Bad taste; but
perhaps excusable in this case, if ever. These lawless soldiery can
never be taught good manners, without which true discipline is
impossible. However, we at length got within the gate, and the
procession poured along the streets, the women _loo-looing_ as we
passed, the bagpipes shrieking louder than ever, the crowd buzzing, the
horses thundering, the cavaliers shouting. In fine, this hubbub carried
us quite back into the regions of civilisation, where men collect on
public occasions often without any real joy, and by mere process of
action and reaction succeed in working themselves up into a state of
boisterous enthusiasm.
Several days were now chiefly occupied in writing reports on the
progress made by the expedition hitherto; and in voluminous
correspondence on petty, matters--petty, I mean, in themselves, but very
important to us--all connected with our future proceedings. I forwarded
to the Foreign Office a letter addressed by the Sultan Laoul, of the
Tibboos of Bilma, to Mr. Gagliuffi. It appears these people are now
nominally subject to the Ottoman Porte.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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