Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
_28th._--I am studying rural life in the neighbourhood of Mourzuk, as if
it were to be my occupation. Scarcely a day passes that I do not escape
from the crowded town and wander, either morning or evening, into the
gardens, the groves, and the fields. The water raised by rude machinery
from the wells is always dancing along in little runnels. The chattering
of women crosses my path right and left. Groups of labourers or
gardeners occur frequently. A man this day valued a date-palm at a
mahboub, and I am told that the greater number are not worth more than a
shilling of English money. To avert the evil eye from the gardens, the
people put up the head of an ass, or some portion of the bones of that
animal. The same superstition prevails in all the oases that stud the
north of Africa, from Egypt to the Atlantic, but the people are
unwilling to explain what especial virtue there exists in an ass's
skull. We go sometimes to shoot doves in the gardens; but these birds
are very shy, and after the first shot fly from tree to tree and keep
out of range. So we stroll about making observations, to console
ourselves for the loss of sport. We noticed several cotton-bushes, but
this useful plant is not cultivated here except that it may ornament the
gardens with its green. I have just eaten of the heart of the date-tree.
It is of a very delicious bitter, and is a choice dish at feasts.
I met with a number of the suburban inhabitants engaged in celebrating a
wedding. First came a group of women, dancing and throwing themselves
into a variety of slow, languid, and lascivious postures, to the sound
of some very primitive string-instrument. Towards this group all the
women of the neighbouring huts were gathering, some merely as
spectators, others bringing dishes of meat. Beyond was a crowd of men,
among whom was the bridegroom helping the musicians to make a noise.
These musicians were an old man and old woman, each above ninety years
of age. The latter beat a calabash with a stick, whilst the former drew
a bow over a single string tied to another calabash. The bridegroom had
got hold of a brass kettle, with which he supplied his contribution to
the din. Preparations for supper were going on; and, the harmony
announcing this fact, idlers were coming in flocks from the distant
hamlets and the fields. Two new huts had been built, one for the bride
and the other for the bridegroom.
These marriages produce very few children, which may partly arise from
licentiousness, but chiefly, no doubt, from misery. I afterwards saw the
burial of an old lady, which ceremony set the whole town in motion. The
women screamed in crowds, and a great number of men went outside the
walls to see the body consigned to its last resting-place. Yusuf
pretends that the burial took place two hours after decease, which is
the ordinary practice here, although thirty-two hours are said to be the
proper time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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