Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
Our people have dug a well, which the Tanelkums promise to call "Bir
Engleez,"--the English Well. Good water was found easily, near the
surface at this station.
_4th._--We started late, and made only a short day; but herbage for the
camels is only found hereabouts. Our course was, as usual, south-west
over an undulating plateau, with an horizon now near, now distant. The
surface of the ground was for the most part blackened sand, stone
pebbles, and some blocks of very bad stone. The weather continues, fresh
and pleasant. We did not feel the heat until some time after noon; and
as we halted early at Ghamoud, suffered nothing. The wind--which we
notice as if on ship-board--now comes always from the east, generally
with a point north. It seems to be a sort of trade-wind throughout this
portion of the desert. I begin now to read on the camel's back, and find
this a pleasing relief from the jog-trot monotony of the movement. I am
anxious to read the whole of the Bible in Hebrew on the camel's back.
Our friends the lizards were still glancing along the ground in the
bright sunshine, but in diminished numbers.
Hateetah is always begging, and now asks for burnouses for the Ghât
Sheikhs, Khanouhen, Jabour, Berka, and his brother. He still pretends
that the Germans must give him a present, and that he knows no one but
the English. In compliment, and to soothe him, I said, "You must dress
in all your fine clothes at Ghât." This awakened his vanity, and he
seemed delighted with the idea. His reply was, "You also must one day
dress in all your best clothes--one day--only one day." I replied, "I
have no fine clothes;" at which he seemed puzzled. Turning the
conversation, he said I must change all his Tunisian piastres into
dollars; which I shall certainly not do. This Consul of the English is a
tremendously grasping fellow.
The Tanelkums all give the son of Shafou a good character. We parted
with them this morning. They take some loads of dates for us, and have
gone to Aroukeen, where they will wait for us six days, and then leave
us; that is, if we do not come up. They will be twelve days, they say,
on their journey. We go by a different route to Ghât, and shall see but
not enter Serdalous. This place is now thickly inhabited by Tuaricks,
and Hateetah does not wish to come in contact with them, for fear of
exciting their curiosity and cupidity. So he is a knowing old dog after
all. Our Tuaricks are displeased that the Germans have encamped so far
from us this evening. The ground is a narrow slip of wady stretching
east and west, almost on a level with the plateau. There is a little
hasheesh (grass), with two or three young tholukh-trees. Venus shone
with uncommon splendour this evening, eclipsing all the majesty of
Jupiter. We are looking out for the Southern Cross, and think we see it
just emerging above the horizon ahead. In the day, the heavens have of
late been hazy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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