Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 1: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
We started late on the 6th, for the Tuaricks had allowed their camels to
stray, and we waited some time for them: however, we were obliged, after
all, to start without them, and having made five hours and a half
halted. Our course had lain over the plateau, which about half way
became broken up into valleys. One of these, called Anan Haghaneen, led
us into the pleasant and picturesque wady of Mana Samatanee, where only
in this part of the route can be found herbage for camels. There are
also a few tholukh-trees. What a desolate region is all this, despite
the little spots of vegetation! There are no signs of animal life,
except traces of the wadan. For two days, they tell us, we are to have
little or no water. Now and then we pass desert mosques,--square, or
circular, or cross-shaped walls of stone, some with two entrances, built
for the devotion of chance passengers. The mountains on the east are
called El Magheelaghen. To-day we carried my trunk with the money. Yusuf
had previously given it in charge to a camel-driver, and the Tuaricks
were always uneasy, asking to see if all were right. Europeans would
probably have done the same under similar circumstances.
On the 7th we made a good day of about eleven hours, continuing during
the first three in shallow wadys, down one of which we had a distant
view of the plain of Serdalous, on the north-west. Then came the
breaking up of the great plateau of Fezzan, and we entered a pass which
leads down into the subjacent Sahara, and runs west with an inclination
to the south. This is, perhaps, one of the most extraordinary natural
features I have ever beheld. It seems to have been purposely cut out of
the solid rock for the use of man, and reminds one at first of a railway
excavation. As we advance it assumes the form of a cave, slightly open
at top,--narrow, winding, and furnished with seats on either hand. A dim
light comes from above. Only one part was difficult for the boat. Now
and then the pass became quite a tunnel, but the concave roof is high
enough for any camel to pass. On the sides, here and there, were Tuarick
inscriptions; but there was nothing remarkable revealed by this
admirable geological section. It was mostly sandstone for the upper
strata, with narrow streaks of marl and chalk. Some slate was observed,
and frequently our way lay over beds of red clay. An agreeable surprise
awaited us occasionally, in the shape of little openings containing
groups of the tholukh; but the general aspect of the pass was horrible
and desolate, and we eagerly pushed on towards the end. There was
nothing, apparently, to support life; but we found and caught a young
fox: how the little wretch procured food was a mystery which our guides
could not explain. However, life no doubt had its joys for him, and we
let him loose in the plain below. I also picked up a dead bird, of a
species common in the desert, with white head or cap, and white tail,
except the upper feathers; all the rest, legs and bill, black.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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