Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's GovernmentRichardson, James
History
Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2: Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
Richardson, James
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Richardson, James, 1806-1851
I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor begged a black burnouse
from Barth. The old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
it is too bad to beg the things which we wear to protect us from the
cold and the heat. Barth, I believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a
present, and he is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg has
given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could ill spare. I feel most
determinedly disposed to give nothing more; but in justice I have to
add, that his highness sends regularly the milk in the morning, that he
gave me a piece of gour-nut on the road, and that he sent me a few dates
at my request! These are great things for Tuaricks; so, "patience."
_16th._--I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate, morning foggy as
yesterday. People say we shall be only nine days from this going to
Damerghou, but I will give them twelve. All the old men in this country
apply to the Taleb for medicine to restore their powers. They very
unwillingly relinquish the exercise of the functions which give them
most delight; but nature is stronger than all things, and they must
submit to its inevitable course. In a country like Africa, where woman
is only thought of for one purpose, it chagrins these old fellows to see
all their nice plump slave-girls about them, and to find themselves past
and gone, so far as this state of existence is concerned. En-Noor and
Hateetah both made this kind of application to the Taleb. When I was
alone in my former journey in the desert, I had also the same kind of
experience.
We came two hours to-day to the well of Anfesas, before the mountain of
Baghzem. Our course was through valleys and rocks, as yesterday, and,
indeed, always in this country; for there is very little variation in
the landscape. Baghzem, instead of being the high mountain pictured to
me by the Ghadamsee merchants, is, at this view of it, only a low range.
Two little things observed to-day were, first, a "traveller's sharpening
stone," on which every person passing by sharpened his dagger or his
sword: next, were heaps of sand scraped together, and sticks or stalks
of herbage stuck on the top, as frail marks of the route, corresponding
to the heaps of stone which mark in line the routes of the Sahara. There
was also a mosque formed of boughs of trees; that is, a low wall of the
groundplan of a mosque made of boughs of trees, like the walls of stone
in other places. The trees were as before, always those full of thorns,
like the tholukh; many of the species bearing what is called the date of
this country. No animals of game were seen, except a solitary hare; but
there were marks of the foot of the mohur, or large gazelle.
The lading of the camels in the morning takes always an hour and a-half:
we have few people, compared with the number of beasts of burden.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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