Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume II: (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859, Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the; Austrian Navy.Scherzer, Karl, Ritter von
History
Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume II: (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859, Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the; Austrian Navy.
Scherzer, Karl, Ritter von
Novara Expedition (1857-1859); Voyages around the world -- History -- 19th century
The first view of the city of Macao is not less charming than that of
Victoria. The long ranges of houses are picturesquely grouped around the
numerous little hills surmounted by forts, which form the greater part of
the isthmus; while the beautiful Praya Grande, where palaces and imposing
mansions are disposed in long array close along the shore, in order to get
the benefit of the refreshing sea-breezes, makes a deep and lasting
impression upon the stranger. Churches with lofty double towers shooting
into the air, and the vast dome of the Jesuit College, at once single the
city out as Catholic, and impart to its external aspect a strong contrast
with the adjoining English colony.
Macao is a favourite resort of the foreigners settled in Hong-kong for
change of air, which in these latitudes seems to be even more necessary
than in Europe. So long as Canton was the chief seat of the European
traders, the Portuguese settlement was used by them as a summer residence
for their families, whither they could themselves occasionally retire from
the bustle of Canton, and the attendant insecurity of life, to spend a few
days of calm enjoyment with their families. On account of the alarms of
war of the previous year, most of the Canton merchants had come down to
Hong-kong and Macao to settle, in consequence of which the latter town has
an unusually lively appearance, while its trade, which had previously been
in a rather languishing condition, has materially improved.
When the steamer makes its appearance in the roads of Macao, it is
immediately surrounded by an innumerable swarm of what are called
Tanka-boats, mostly propelled by women, who with yells and shrieks bid for
the privilege of conveying the passengers to shore. As there is no
suitable landing-place on the eastern side of the roads, the traveller is
conveyed to the shore through the lash of the waves in a small
cockle-shaped boat, just as at Madeira or Madras, and equally
uncomfortably; but although the boat and the mode in which it is navigated
are anything but calculated to inspire confidence, such a thing as an
accident is of rare occurrence.
The naturalists of the _Novara_ found an exceedingly friendly and hearty
reception at the beautiful residence of the Russian Consul, M. Von
Carlowitz, who shortly before had come from Canton to settle in Macao,
with his excellent wife, a very beautiful lady of Altenburg in Germany,
there to await the upshot of the war.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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