Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824Denham, Dixon
History
Narrative of travels and discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, in the years 1822, 1823, and 1824
Denham, Dixon
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Africa, North
The river here is a wide, handsome stream, and the walls extend quite
to the banks, and have two water-gates; the character is the same as
nearer its embouchure. I passed one of these water-gates at sunset,
and was much struck by the beauty of the landscape, with the fishing
canoes just returning towards Loggun: the stream sweeps off to the
south-south-west, and then to the south. Loggun was said to be thirty
miles distant by the river. Here my poor friend declared it impossible
to remain, and we moved on towards Loggun the next morning. We
could advance, however, but a few miles. Mr. Toole’s sufferings
were most acute; he twice fainted, and we lifted him on and off his
horse like an infant, so helpless had he become. What added also to
our distress was, that from this time until the evening of the 16th,
the Shouaa Arabs, who occupy the frontier of the Loggun country,
refused to allow us to pass until the sultan had been consulted,
and a number of his questions answered as to the purpose of our
visit. We were now close to the river, and notwithstanding the
heat, the only means we had of defending either ourselves or our
animals from the torture of the millions of insects that beset us,
was by lighting fires at the entrance of our tent, and constantly
supplying them with weeds and wet straw: the thick suffocating
smoke arising from this description of fire afforded us temporary
relief. I rode down to the river, which here flows with great beauty
and majesty past the high walls of this capital of Loggun; it comes
direct from the south-west, with a rapid current. We entered the
town by the western gate, which leads to the principal street:
it is as wide as Pall Mall, and has large dwellings on each side,
built with great uniformity, each having a court-yard in front,
surrounded by walls, and a handsome entrance, with a strong door
hasped with iron: a number of the inhabitants were seated at their
doors for the purpose of seeing us enter, with their slaves ranged
behind them. At first they took but little notice of us: indeed, our
appearance could not have been very imposing: one of our party was
laid on a camel, and another supported on his horse by two persons,
who walked on each side of him, while he raved most incoherently
from the violence of the fever by which he was consuming. At length,
however, a person of apparent consequence advanced towards my horse,
bending nearly double, and joining his hands (the first salutation of
the kind that I had seen), followed by his slaves stooping still lower
than himself. After explaining that he was deputed by the sultan to
welcome _kab n’jaffy_ (the white man), and repeating frequently
that he was _kaffama_ (my friend), he preceded our party; and,
as we moved on, each assembly that we passed rose from the ground,
advanced towards us, and saluted us in the same manner as I have
already described. We were at length conducted to our habitation,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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